[Jewelry making - Article 00776] - Re: [Orchid] [Source] Silver Trillion bezel setting

[R . E . Rourke]

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    mixing the higher kt. gold trillion or trilliant (cut cornered
    trillion ) settings are rather trendy at this time and look quite
    nice. The silver wears longer because of the copper content and the
    gold looks rich..Hoover and strong (online) sells a number of the
    prefab settings. but the easiest way is to take a fairly thick
    (16-22g.) strip of an appropriate height using the old formulae:
    length of side of the stone x 3 + metal thickness. 

    OR wrap a string around the stone,and add the metal thickness to the
    end to get the bezel 's appropriate length. then if its a trillion
    mark the length of each side on the metal and file a groove with a
    triangular, or square or file of choice to make a 'v' shaped groove,
    bend to shape run a small paillion of hard solder on the folds and
    then,if you are going to cut a bearing solder the seam and proceed,
    if you are going to make a bearing out of, say, a 26g square wire,
    cut to length and bind in place and solder seam and bearing wire in
    one step,clean, set stone and finish..the grooves are the essential
    step in trillions- the trilliant with the cut corners are a bit more
    time consuming considering the quality and/or precision of the stone
    cutter.. some edges i have seen in cheap native cut stones are all
    different when measured with digital calipers, then there are those
    that are all equally cut angles..anyway there's the basics, and
    hoover and strong or Cooksons or any number of suppliers sell both
    bezels and bimetal rings designed for trillion stones..let me know if
    I can be of more help. 

R.E.Rourke
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