[Jewelry making - Article 00423] - Re: [Orchid] Bench jewellers working for the trade

[John Donivan]

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>     The setter bears a greater potential burden if the three caret
>     stone is damaged then if the third caret stone is damaged. In this
>     situation, shouldn't the charge for setting the larger stone 

    First off, the notion that a setter is charging "stone-Breakage
    insurance", as a few do, is pretty nonsensical. If you break a stone,
    it's your fault - we all have, those who have set any stones. And
    they're not going to buy you a $20,000 stone anyway. But Judy's
    conundrum is less so than it seems. If I am doing an identical job in
    silver, 14kt,18kt, or platinum, it works like this, for me. The
    reason I don't accept silver work is because people don't want to pay
    for it. Judy points out a $15 sizing on a $12 ring. Well, so what?
    I'm not a charity, time is time. If it's 14kt or 18 kt, those could
    be considered the base for pay - "normal" work. Platinum takes 1 1/2
    times as long, plus I am a platinum worker - I make more/hr. for
    platinum, because it's highly skilled. Otherwise, it's as I wrote in
    another post. I don't charge more for a 3 carat because of it's 
value.
    It will take ten minutes to set a 1/3, and 30 minutes to set a 3
    carat. So, if you are setting a 3 carat d flawless diamond into
    platinum, you have a $100,000 piece of jewelry. It's not the value,
    it's the standards. Someone who is buying that isn't going to accept
    poor work - in fact they will want the highest quality, which
    translates into bench time, which translates into cost. 

http://www.donivanandmaggiora.com
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