[Jewelry making - Article 00037] - Re: [Orchid] Jewelry weekend workshops

[Christine Pyman]

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>     it is the actual fabrication that i have a hard time with. The kind
>     of rings I love are on www.zoechicco.com. Obviously I do not want
>     to do the ex act same thing as her, but something along those
>     lines. Can anyone tell how they were made?? 

    Hi Laura, with your skills and experience in hollow construction you
    should have no problems in fabricating a large stone set ring
    similar to those on the site you mention. Basically all you need to do
    is to make a bezel to fit your chosen stone, make a ring band, and
    put the two together. Step by step ( the way i would do it for rings
    with large faceted stones :-) - but there are many ways) bezel-
    measure stone, cut a strip of metal total length which equals the
    diameter of the stone + twice the thickness of your metal ( choose
    thickness depending on size of stone, those size stones approx..5mm
    thick) + 1mm for saw cut, total height equals the height of the stone
    measured from culet to just above where the girdle is ( hold stone
    sideways, see where the metal needs to reach to hold the stone) + a
    little for finger clearance ( or more if you want the stone higher) +
    enough that when sideways it is bisected by the circle of your ring
    band there will be enough metal to " go down the sides of the ring" -
    the finished depth will be your shallowest point at the top point of
    the ring so you have to allow for this - draw a square box on top of
    a circle and you will get the idea. solder it, check for size- the
    bezel should just slide nicely over the stone, no gaps etc. 

    Cut and shape an inside bezel ( seat) in the same way, but of thicker
    metal, and deducting the thickness of the metal from your
    measurements- shape the inside with a file or setting burr to fit
    the stone, turn up to shape, check fit and placement inside of outer
    bezel and then solder into place. 

    ring band- measure finger size, cut length ( work out same as outside
    bezel above), shape, solder. Finish ring band by shaping as you wish
    and polishing. 

    construction- position bezel with ring band then file out a semi
    circle underneath the bezel so it sits on the band, clean up so it
    will be easier to polish when finished - I routinely polish each
    component to up tripoli stage before joining - position, then
    solder, pickle, rinse, check, polish. 

    setting- place stone, push over bezel working opposite sides
    alternately, burnish around edge of bezel or bright cut with a
    graver to neaten. you might also need to clean up with papers around
    the bezel a little. 

    final quick buff - ultrasonic - dry, wear it! 

    there are lots of refinements along the way, and obviously a lot
    more details, but this is the basic way that I use- play with it-, 

cheers, Christine in Sth Australia


 
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