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| Re: [Orchid] Good quality stones at a good price? | ||
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From: coralnut Date: Mon Oct 02 02:31:25 2006 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== Noel, Definitely you need an intermediate wheel between the "200" (probably a 180 or 240)grinding wheel and the 600 smoother. I recommend a 280 smoothing wheel...suggest the Nova as most long lasting. Most machines have a 600 as the second grinder. People ask me why go from a 600 grinding to a 280 smoothing? Well, the 280 is on resin base on a soft rubber band and after the initial break in, it will cut more like a 1200. Your 3 micron is an 8000 grit and it is not meant to remove enough material to obliterate scratches (which are acutually the result of the first wheel). My favorite set up is, 80 (or 100) gr hard, 600 gr hard, 280 soft, 600 soft, 1200 final smooth, and 14,000 prepolish. Some consider the 14K as final polish but I do not. I almost always polish on the end plate with cerium Ox (silica based stones) on felt or leather, or Linde A on leather. Another tip....unless you are cutting large agate or jaspers and need to remove lots of material, don't use the 80gr coarse. Use a 100 or 180 instead. Remember, diamond abrades everything and does not break down easily as SiC does. When it abrades, it actually fractures deep into the surface, as much as 8-10 microns. Such abrasions are very difficult to remove even with the 600 hard wheel. Use a wheel that will remove material effeciently but don't be in such a hurry. You will pay for it in the smoothing process later if you do. There are many theories as to why a rounded stone polishes more easily than a flat one - I won't go into that now. This is a common problem in faceting when polishing large facets or polishing large slabs. One suggestion is...when smoothing stones with relatively flat crowns, to not push them hard against the smoothing wheels. Rather, gently move them in a circular motion across the wheel face with light pressure. That is when the wheel is doing its cutting. Remember the smoothing wheels are not meant to shape or form...only smooth the surface. Same thing for the polish. Except, first use heavy pressure but then relax it till the stone rests lightly on the surface. Keep the polish wheel barely damp until you feel a tug. That is when it is polishing. If the wheel is too wet the stone will slew and there will be no polishing. If too dry, the polish will clump and scratch the stone. I agree with you that cutting is very relaxing. People who do cut seem to be more at rest than most. Happy cutting! Cheers from Don at The Charles Belle Studio in SOFL where simple elegance IS fine jewelry! ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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