[Jewelry making - Article 00377] - Re: [Orchid] Hart Burrs & Gypsy Setting

[frank goss]

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Carla,

    my best advise on hart burrs is start with a very small burr say a
    1.5 to 1.8 mm and work your way up to a larger burr as needed. The
    smaller burrs give you more room to correct your height on the seat
    of the cut. Make sure the top edge of the cut is the same distance
    from the top edge of the hole all the way around in order to keep it
    level. Adjust the seat or bottom edge according to the cut of the
    stone so the stone sets in the seat level. Study the stone carefully
    under a loupe or microscope so you know how it is cut before you
    start to cut the seat. Last I usually mark the stone with a magic
    marker and the surface of both the stone and the metal so the stone
    is always oriented the same in the seat each time I check the fit.
    Marking for orientation also works for prong setting as well. A magic
    marker on the seat will also show up high and low spots when you put
    the stone in place and move it around a little. The marker will rub
    off or scuff where the stone hits metal. Hope this helps and makes
    sense. 

Frank Goss
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