[Jewelry making - Article 00440] - Re: [Orchid] Micro Pave

[David L. Huffman]

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Hi All;

    The problem with micro pave isn't in the technique itself. The same
    thing is happening with it that happened with invisible set stones.
    Originally, you only saw invisible setting done by the old houses
    like Van Cleef and Arpels, etc. It was show off stuff; very good
    jewelers doing their best work to be appreciated by other very good
    jewelers and it sold for dear prices. When mass manufacturers got
    hold of it, it was done very poorly. I've actually seen invisible set
    stuff, brand new, where the stones were glued in. Anything to get it
    out the door, including cast in place. 

    The problem here is the cost of labor. Pave is very labor intense,
    and low margin manufacturers aren't going to do it if they can't get
    it done cheaply. They'll cut whatever corners they can, and that
    means technical shortcuts (like cast in place) and low skilled
    "specialists", working for slave wages and finally, quality control
    goes out the door. 

    I've seen a few good examples of micro pave, mostly set with half
    and quarter pointers, that was well done. Obviously, it's delicate
    jewelry, not meant to be worn digging around in the garden. Now I'm
    seeing half and quarter pointers, very poorly cut stones of low
    quality, just clobbered into the setting. This stuff has never seen a
    beading tool, the prong work is cast and just mashed over the stones,
    and they fall out all the time. If one of my accounts begs me to fix
    this stuff, I tell them I'll give it a shot, but I make no
    guarantees, it will cost them, I can't estimate, and I don't want to
    see the same piece twice. You buy it, you live with it. 

David L. Huffman
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