[Jewelry making - Article 00064] - Re: [Orchid] Bezel punch

[joanna gollberg]

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hi ann,

    the bezel punch is designed to be used with a bezel that is already
    formed in a conical shape. it is there to help you shore up the
    already exisiting shape, not to create a cone from a tube-type
    shape. 

    so, in order to make a concical shaped bezel, you can use your round
    nose pliers. i believe tim mccreight has a formula for making the
    perfect sized cone in the back of his book. but if it is not in that
    book, look in oppi's. it is kind of a pain to make it perfect the
    1st time, which is why the bezel punch helps. but you can also eye
    the size or measure as you form the bezel. use some sheet strip that
    is a little taller than what you want in the end and also longer so
    you can form it with some ease. if you are working with gold which
    is more expensive, you can cut the strip to length and then form as
    much as you can, hammer the ends together and solder, then form in
    the bezel block. as a quick aside, once you hammer the ends
    together, you can cut back through the unsoldered joint with your
    saw blade then re-fit the ends together for a very perfect joint. i
    also often do this when making rings. (thanks to tony lent for that
    great tip!) 

    if you must start with a tube-type bezel form, then you will get the
    unevenness after punching. when i do this, i just file off any
    excess on the top and the bottom. 

    the hole size in the bottom just needs to be small enough that the
    stone does not fall out. but other than that i am unsure about that
    part of your question. 

    in addition, you might ask yourself why you want a conical bezel. it
    is because you like the way it looks or is it necessary in order to
    fit stones next to each other? if it is not necessary, you will do
    just as well with a tube-type bezel! then you don't have to go to
    all the extra work of making the cone.... 

good luck!
joanna
www.joannagollberg.com
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