[Jewelry making - Article 00252] - Re: [Orchid] Argentium Sterling: Annealing

[Cynthia Eid]

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Hi Janet,

    Here is an excerpt from the article that I wrote for SNAG News, which
    is on my web site, www.cynthiaeid.com (There is also an updated
    version at www.riogrande.com. I am working on a new article for Art
    Jewelry magazine, which I think will be posted on Ganoksin.) I hope
    this helps! 

    WORKING WITH ARGENTIUM STERLING SILVER 
    Tips and Procedures: 

    ANNEALING 

    Argentium Sterling has a melting point around 60 degrees lower than
    regular sterling silver. Similarly, it has a lower annealing
    temperature range, of 1050 F to 1150 F. 

    Argentium Sterling Silver displays a paler color when heated. In
    practice, I find the color hard to see, and it is easy to overheat if
    I anneal in a lighted room. Annealing and soldering in the dark make
    it easier to avoid overheating. When that is not practical, I use
    dabs of paste flux as a temperature indicator; when the flux is
    fluid, but still a bit bubbly (not yet as runny as it looks when
    silver solder is ready to flow) I figure the Argentium Sterling is
    annealed. 

    Recently, Peter Johns told me that it is a good practice to use a
    clean, new soldering board for Argentium, and to keep it separate
    from the surfaces that are used for other metals, especially copper
    alloys. This avoids the possibility of the Argentium Sterling having
    its surface contaminated by oxides in the bricks, which could create
    stains on the metal or other problems. Prior to this, I had not been
    using fresh soldering surfaces, and had not noticed any problems. It
    is sensible though, so I have now begun using a separate, labeled
    soldering board for Argentium Sterling. 

    QUENCHING 

    Argentium Sterling Silver retains heat longer than standard sterling
    silver. It's important to wait for any visible red heat to disappear
    from the alloy before quenching (this is best judged in a darkened
    area, of course). In practice, if unable to work in the dark, then
    wait a few moments for a small piece, or up to a few minutes for a
    large piece. If in doubt, I suggest that it is better to wait longer
    than to be impatient. The worst that will happen by waiting is that
    the metal will be a bit harder. I find that it is still wonderfully
    ductile and malleable, even if I air-cool it without quenching. If I
    were doing soldered constructions that I did not want to warp, I
    would air cool, not quench. In fact, I rarely quench any metal-it is
    my general practice is to avoid shocking any metal that I am working
    with-unless it is one of the gold alloys that require quenching, or
    a steel tool that I am making. On the other hand, note that the
    sooner the Argentium Sterling is quenched, the softer it
    is-therefore, you may choose between softness and risk of
    shock-cracks or warping according to the situation and your personal
    sense of concern about those factors.

Cynthia Eid
http://www.cynthiaeid.com
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