[Jewelry making - Article 00560] - Re: [Orchid] Jewelry and "Cultural Property"

[Mlou Brubaker]

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>     You are not claiming to be Maori or First Nation or Hindu or
>     whatever. You are expressing your interest in and admiration for
>     the culture behind the symbol. Sounds like a positive thing that
>     could bring about increased awareness of the culture. 

    I dance around this fire all the time, doing designs based on
    ancient patterns and symbols. At one craft fair that I showed at,
    there was even a demonstration by people of color who were against
    Cultural Appropriation. This led me to create my Viking Collection,
    one of the most popular and profitable collections of jewelry I have
    ever designed! But I decided years before that not to put designs out
    on the market that are the cultural property of a minority group,
    such as Native Americans, especially if they also make jewelry. I
    feel that they, not I, should be sought out to purchase such items
    from. I have made native symbols at the request of natives who wanted
    to commission them from me. One of my pieces even rests in the grave
    of a notable local medicine man. But I will not make "Indian jewelry"
    to put out for sale to the public. I think it would be very wrong for
    me to do so. There is plenty of real, Native made jewelry available
    on the market. I have local Native folks buying my eagle and deer and
    bear amulets all the time, but I have been careful to design them
    myself without relying on any Native silversmiths' styles. I believe
    they want them because the pieces evoke deer or bear, not because
    they look like 'Indian jewelry". 

    The Native American question is fairly easy for me, but what about
    some other cultures? I am thinking of doing some design around the
    Hand of Fatima, an Islamic symbol, that would incorporate the idea
    of Peace into the design. I feel that this would be a very positive
    concept in today's world. But I know very little about the culture
    or its traditions of possibly protecting designs. I do know that I
    saw a hand design clearly derived from it that someone brought back
    from Israel and she told me it was something like the Hand of Peace
    (or something), never knowing that it was Islamic derived. So someone
    in Israel is selling them with a different story than what I have
    read in design books. Hmmm, interesting. Sounds a little suspicious
    to me. I will make up my own mind on this one, but input about the
    Hand of Fatima is welcome. I do know that Fatima was the daughter of
    Mohammed. I will do more research before proceeding to design. 

    I would not have a problem making a commissioned piece for someone
    with just about any symbology on it, as long as it was not
    offensive, like a KKK sign for example. I have had inquiries about
    Stars of David, for example, by Jews who saw my crosses and Pagan
    designs in my showcases. They didn't mind requesting symbols from me.
    I haven't got around to that one yet, but I think I will. So I don't
    think I have to be a part of a religion to help people celebrate
    their own beliefs. But there is something else going on with many of
    the other, perhaps more exotic or minority cultures. It is trendy and
    cool to have various ethnic designs right now. There may be no
    respect for the cultures at all by the makers, many of whom are just
    in it for the profit. How many millions of dollars have been made
    using the image of Kokopelli? Jewelry, lamps, clothing, etc., etc.
    Wouldn't it be nice if Native Americans got all that money? I am not
    condemning anyone who feels a connection to this material and wants
    to work with it, but I do have serious reservations about doing it
    myself, for profit. And there are unquestionably many designs out on
    the market that have been created with no reverence for anything but
    the almighty dollar. That irks me. If you want to make a
    religious-based piece for yourself, or to give as a gift, I would
    never question it. But please think seriously before appropriating
    symbols for your own profit. You may be genuinely adding to the
    culture you admire, or you may be taking away from it. 

    I know there are inconsistencies in my above remarks. You see, it is
    an ongoing process for me. Please don't be threatened by my
    discussion. You know what is in your heart, if you are a maker of
    objects. I know of at least one maker on this list whom I admire,
    who probably is not Native American but does related material, and
    whom I believe comes to the material in a good way. 

    May I be well. May you be well. May all manner of things be well.

Sincerely,
M'lou Brubaker
Minnesota, USA
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