[Jewelry making - Article 00547] - Re: [Orchid] Setting stones with thick girdles

[Richard Hart]

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>     Thick girdles are especially prevalent in color stones, as these
>     are cut deep to improve color. 

    The girdle is the widest part of a faceted stone. the top is the
    crown, the bottom is the pavillion. If the girdle is thick, it will
    made no difference in the color of a stone, unless the color is
    concentrated only in the girdle. 

    The pavillion of stones can be cut deep to improve color. I heard
    while at G.I.A. that a yellow diamond's color can be improved
    (temporarily) by coloring the girdle with a blue marker. This
    practice of leaving more material in the pavillion makes the stone
    weight more, and cost more, but not necessarily adding any value,
    usually not better color. 

    Some types of cutting add more brilliance to the stone, and this
    makes the stone look lighter, so "native cuts" can be less brilliant
    and the color looks better, but not because there is more material,
    because it is not refracting as much light , and it appears to have
    deeper color.

Richard Hart
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