[Jewelry making - Article 00176] - Re: [Orchid] Type and basic assortment for endmills

[David D. Bright]

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Todd,

>     Can I get some suggestions as to a type and basic assortment of
>     endmills to get, and where to get them. I will start milling WAX
>     and graduate to metal later. It comes with a 1/8" and 1/4" collet.
>     Do I need more collets of different sizes. I have read alot about
>     keeping the endmills sharp. Does this apply as much to wax? Do I
>     need to get a sharpening setup?

    Most endmills that we use for wax are 3mm diameter which equals 1/8
    inch. You already have this size. so for wax your not going to need
    another collett. 

    What type and style endmills you will need will depend on what you
    want to mill and how deep/big it is and how many steps you want to do
    with it. If you are going to hog out or "rough" large amounts of wax
    prior to running a final toolpath you will need a large long reach
    end mill. Personally I would suggest something that is at least 1 to
    1.25mm. This can be a flat or ball end type. Most jewelers are
    adverse to changing tools and running multiple toolpaths and usually
    try and accomplish the milling in one step and one toolpath. To do
    this most jewelers usually use a profiler. pyarimid. or helix type
    endmill. 

    What type and size usually is personal preference. Pyramids of 12
    degree .003 or.004 tips are a good all purpose choice, and will do
    most all of the rings, pendants and other things you want to mill. I
    know people who use a 1/32 flat end mill and also ball end mills to
    do some milling also. The majority of jewelers I know usually use a
    "profiler" or pyramid, or Gemvision's helix. I like the 12 degree.004
    helix cutters that Gemvision sells, but they are very expensive. The
    reason I like them is they have a 12mm cutting depth and will do a
    lot of work in one toolpath. The y will impact wax into small areas
    though and you really do need a product called cool mist to squirt on
    the wax while cutting. This allows the impacted wax to float to the
    surface so you don't have to pick it out of the little crevices. You
    can also use windex and water...but this contains ammonia and will
    pit and rust your mill, and any other surface that it lands on. My
    personal suggestion is to pick a good pyramid and a profiler to start
    with (a large end mill if you want to do roughing) and experiment
    with these...then branch out. 

    I will also warn you, one of the first things you will cut is your
    hand. These things cause really nice, deep wounds with lots of
    bleeding. I think mills require some type of blood sacrafice befor
    actual bonding between you and the mill takes place. 

    http://www.bitsbits.com/ 

    has most everything you will need. They can most likely advise you
    as to which one is best for your needs. 

    As for sharpening them. Once broken they are basically a throw away,
    unless the break is a minor one. Bits and Bits also resharpens them
    for a reasonable cost. The alternative is a Deckle sharpening system
    which is alot of money, and some type of lens to determine just what
    size it is after you sharpen it. My point is that for most folks it
    is not very cost effective. 

Hope this helps.

David


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