[Jewelry making - Article 00090] - Re: [Orchid] What Is Jewelry Design?

[andy cooperman]

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    Hi Nanz, for the most part I agree with your sentiments. I want my
    work to be worn comfortably so that it can move about in the world.
    Portability is one of the wonderful things about jewelry. I also
    believe that if an object is intended to be worn-- on the finger,
    ear, neck or lapel-- it should be constructed with that intent fully
    in mind and decisions regarding its making carefully considered in
    that light. 

    But I fervently believe that there is a place for jewelry that
    stretches the limits of wearability and fragility. Anything that
    pushes the envelope and allows us to change perspective, I feel, is a
    valuable asset in the development of design, form and function. By
    challenging long held beliefs, our field can grow. Even seemingly
    outlandish ideas, strange materials or jewelry forms can be examined
    and elements adapted to more ergonomically suited pieces. 

    Taking materials out of context, for instance, can be
    transformative. Gut, insect parts and even dissected owl pellets all
    can have their role in a piece of jewelry. Perhaps they would only be
    worn under special circumstances or for specific occaisions. This
    does not, of course, necessarily fly in the face of tradition.
    Cocktail rings, mourning jewelry and reliquary pieces have all made
    their appearances in the history of jewelry, challenging form,
    content, function and material durability. Think of the gut pieces of
    Maria Phillips or the pigment or insect part work of Jennifer Trask.
    The latter incorporates beetle carapaces and grasshopper legs into
    quite traditional forms-- all very well crafted. They can be powerful
    pieces. 

    As you, I am always looking to the durability and wearability of
    what is made. I find that the challenge and excitement often lies in
    the bending of a bizarre or even unsavory material or concept/content
    into a usable object. But, for me, I find at times that paying too
    close attention to functionality can be limiting. That's why I
    eagerly await the work of others that tests known limits. It may not,
    in the end, pan out. But the new paths that it opens I find valuable. 

    Hope all is well. It's blowing like mad here in Seattle. 

Andy

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