[Jewelry making - Article 00423] - Re: [Orchid] Fixing wax carving holes

[LEESSILVER]

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Augest,

    Filling holes and repairing carving wax can be frustrating at times. 

    Some times the addition of repair wax will trap a bubble under the
    surface. This can lead to the lighter color of the wax at the repair
    spot. 

    One can check for air pockets in the wax by pulling a vacuum on the
    model. The air pockets will pop out if they are close to the surface.
    If the surface of the bubble does not break away under a vacuum the
    bubble will not be a problem when vacuuming the investment. 

    The wax used to fill a hole MUST be melted into the model. The model
    wax and the added wax must be melted together. The joint between
    added wax and the model will be very weak if the base wax is not
    melted. 

    Some times the repair will leave a recessed area next to the repair
    spot. The hot tool melts some of the border of the repair and the
    melted wax flows into the main body of the repair. These areas can
    be repaired by loading the wax pen with wax and causing the melted
    bead to flow into the recessed areas while all the repair spot is
    still hot. 

    Round tips on the wax pen works better. I mentioned a battery powered
    hand soldering tool (not the one advertised as an instant cool tip
    when turned off) in a previous post. It has a bullet tip and works
    better for repairing problems than any tip of my wax pen. 

    Some time ago someone posted a recommendation to use Kerr green wax
    to repair pits etc. I never tried it. I use the same wax the model
    is made with. 

    Be sure to cool the hot flask as described in one of the
    anti-firescale papers added to the Orchid Bench tips. You will not
    get firescale if you follow the very simple process. 

http://ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/vacuum-casting-firescale-prevention.htm
http://ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/fire-scale-elimination.htm

Lee Epperson

 
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