[Jewelry making - Article 00754] - Re: [Orchid] Uses for Goldfill Wire

[Bev Ludlow]

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    Since my market is mainly low-end, I use sterling silver and 14k
    goldfill almost exclusively. Many people are familiar with it
    because it is offered at places like Mervyn's dept. store, and other
    mid-to-low-end dept. stores. I am, occasionally, asked to explain
    the difference between goldfill, solid 14k, and plated gold, so be
    prepared with the answer. Goldfill is a bonded process where a thin
    sheet of gold is bonded, through heat and pressure, to a core of base
    metal, usually bronze or brass. The resulting product has a karat
    weight of 1/20th gold; thus, the marking 14/20. It is also available
    in 12k, so be sure which one you're getting. 

    I believe that T.B. Hagstoz carries white as well as yellow
    goldfill. 

    14k goldfill wears quite well in bracelets, pendants, and necklace
    findings. Many of my pieces are still being worn after 18 years, and
    look just fine. Even wire rings when worn constantly can last for
    2-4 years, or longer, without losing their gold layer. The gold does
    not chip off, but as with any metal, even solid 14k, it wears through
    over time. The cut edge of the sheet or wire will be base metal, so
    this end must be concealed so that it does not touch the skin. 

    You can order in dead soft, half-hard, or full hard; again through
    TB Hagstoz. Rio Grande carries some, also, but not as many choices as
    Hagstoz. Annealing, I believe, can be done, but one must be very
    careful. If it gets too hot, the base metal can effect the gold
    layer. It's best to order in the hardness you want. 

    I have encountered customers who have been told by "expert jewelers"
    that it is the same as "solid" 10k gold. Obviously, this is not so.
    It is 14k gold that you see; therefor, it is a match to solid 14k in
    color, 10k gold is not. My math isn't great, but it seems to me that
    the source of this comment is referring to the actual amount of 24k
    gold in the finished product. 

    For those who want the look of 14k gold, but cannot afford solid
    gold jewelry, goldfill is a wonderful alternative. It is not,
    however, for those who suffer from metal sensitivities. 

Bev L
Renaissance Jewelry
www.wirewrapjeweler.com

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