[Jewelry making - Article 00346] - Re: [Orchid] Technical question about firescale

[coralnut]

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Marilyn

    Yes, I'm afraid that firescale can 'grow' as the the metal is heated
    over and over without the proper protection and/or use of the wrong
    flame. Twenty joins are not unusual when constructing complicated and
    detailed pieces of sterling jewelry. 

    Once you do get forescale, there are only a few usually destructive
    ways to remove it....filing, sanding, acid etching, depleting and, as
    you have tried, plating. None of these are satisfactory when
    producing high quality pieces. I tell my students, the best way to
    get rid of firescale is to not get it in the first place, and I say
    that again here. Prip's flux, in whatever iteration you use
    it...whether you make your own or purchase the commercial variety, is
    essential and, if it is used properly and regularly, your fire scale
    should be reduced (if not eliminated) to a small blotch here and
    there or to fire stain which is much easier to deal with. The one
    thing you must do when using Prip's flux is establish a complete
    covering over all parts of the item...but especially those parts that
    will constitute the visible surface when completed. 

    After you have established a regular protocol in applying the
    Prip's, you must use the appropriate flame for the size of the piece
    being soldered. A strong oxidizing flame is just what it says it
    is....it is supplying a high amount of oxygen into the surface of the
    metal. Furthermore, if the flame is a small one, it will take longer
    to bring the sink portion (the largest part being soldered) up to
    critical temperature... all the while pumping an equivelent amount of
    02 into the depths of the metal. Rather, use a larger reducing flame
    when possible as this will lower the amount of 02 impacting the metal
    yet bring the sink to critical temp as quickly as possible.
    Now....don't overdo this or you will end up with a puddle, but
    carefully consider the size of the torch tip and the kind of flame
    each time you heat a piece. 

    After finishing soldering, give more thought to how to finish the
    surface. Consider, for example, using a vibra tumbler. By careful
    selection of the tumbler medium you can debur, smooth, burnish and
    polish delicate pieces with little or no impact on the crispness of
    the design. I work part time in a factory where we make highly
    accurate machined parts that must retain their exact shapes and
    dimensions. We tumble hundreds of parts without losing either. Many
    fine jewelry makers do the same thing with their castings....that's
    how they get that perfect finish yet retain sharp corners and design. 

    Hope this give you something to think about and is useful in solving
    your problem. 

    Cheers from Don at The Charles Belle Studio in SOFL where simple
    elegance IS fine jewelry! dcdietz AT comcast.net

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