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| Re: [Orchid] Polishing Platinum | ||
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From: David L. Huffman Date: Wed Jan 04 00:33:56 2006 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== Hello Laura and others; The original post was a question about polishing platinum. Let me try to shed some light on this. First, the issue of using separate buffs for platinum is or isn't relevant. Here's why. If you are going to solder platinum after you've been buffing it, you need to clean it thoroughly in any case. If all you've ever polished with a buff is platinum, then the problem is only about getting the polishing compounds off before you heat it. If you've used that buff for other metals, you especially need to get it clean. Other metals trapped in the surface of your platinum will create problems for soldering, causing pits, brittleness, and small explosions (no kidding). But if you're done with a piece and are ready to put the final polish on it, it won't matter that the buff has seen other metals. Again, buffs reserved for platinum only are the best practice, but not that critical. Cleanliness before soldering, as in pickling in strong nitric acid, is pretty important. Now about polishing. The best reason for buffs that are used exclusively for platinum is to avoid contaminating the buffs with the wrong compounds. If you use two different grades of polishing compound on a single buff, from the point at which you charge the buff with the courser of the two compounds, that is how course the cutting/polishing action will always be on that buff unless you completely clean the buff (messy work). Platinum is dense and soft, it hangs on tools like files and gravers. Now polishing is really a matter of making smaller and smaller scratches until they are so close together light sort of bounces off the surface rather than lighting the topography of these scratches. But unlike 14K gold, which can be cut down pretty quickly as in file, then 320 grit, then tripoli on a felt lap, then rouge, platinum has to be led by the nose through a few extra steps. The surface smears, rather than cuts. Same happens with high karat golds, to a degree. Silver is somewhere in the middle. So you need to use several consecutively finer grades of abrasives when you sand, and likewise, more grades of polishing compounds when you polish. With platinum, you'll find that it's a lot of work to remove file marks with 320 grit paper, and just as much work to jump from that to 600. So after the filing, a little 280, then 320, then 400 (or 600 with more elbow grease), then ideally, a 2/0 grade of crocus or some equivalent to an 800 grit will work better, and you'll need to watch that each finer grade removes all the scratches from the previous grit. Some people prefer to burnish after 600, but it takes a fine touch and a good carbide burnisher for this to be any advantage, since you can chew up the surface with the burnisher while making nice little shiny streaks. I sometimes burnish between the 320 and the 400, just to pack down the surface of cast pieces (which tend to be slightly porous). After the waltz of the sand papers, you'll need to do somewhat the same with abrasives. Here's the cheapskate goldsmiths route: something a bit courser than tripoli, like gray star or one of the "platinum pre-polish" compounds will get you from the 800 or 2/0 grit to the tripoli, but without that, it's tough to get the tripoli to cut out the scratches, fine as they are. Then tripoli, then rouge, preferably a yellow or green compound. I usually use a felt lap for the first two grades, then "read" it with a once over on a buff of the same grit, making sure I get all the scratches but not leaning on it enough to round off corners (as if this is much of a problem with platinum). No lapping with the final polish, just bring up the luster on a buff. But the best solution is to get a set of at least 3 grades of polishing compound (some people like 4 grades!) that are especially formulated for platinum. These are a bit pricey compared to the other stuff. There's are pre-tripoli types, then some that are similar to tripoli in grade, then some that are between what you'd get with tripoli and what rouge would do, then the final luster compound. Most jewelry suppliers have compounds for platinum, and they are getting more reasonably priced (they used to be sold by the gram!). This way you'll get optimum results, and even with all the extra steps, it's actually easier, because here's another thing about platinum: it gets really hot to hold when you're polishing, especially lapping. More graded steps in the process mean less bearing down on the buff or lap, hence, less burned fingertips. And finally, if you believe the advertising, you can do all of this with a selection of rubber or silicone wheels and a foredom handpiece. Depends on the piece mostly, the shape of the surfaces, etc. Just expect to use at least 3 grades of abrasive between 800 grit and a final polish. Platinum, the metal a jeweler loves to hate. It's both finicky and forgiving, it's expensive to the point of vulgar, but it sells itself because it is such a tasteful choice, it's heft is unmistakable, almost alien, yet with patience, it can be transformed into something as delicate as a butterfly, and it lasts....incorruptible. (Ok, platinum guild, you want to buy any of that plugging?). David L. Huffman ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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