[Jewelry making - Article 00171] - Re: [Orchid] Sawing Niobium - nasty!

[Peter W . Rowe]

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>     Has anyone had a similar experience and is there a trick for sawing
>     [niobium] safely that I just haven't figured out? 

    The problem with niobium (and titanium too) is that it forms a very
    hard surface oxide layer. That's the effect you want when you
    anodize, and anodizing makes that layer even thicker and tougher. The
    metal underneath is not actually that hard, though it tends to be a
    bit gummy to file or saw. But to cut it, part of the trick is not to
    be too gentle. Use as large a size blade as your application will
    allow, since the coarser teeth will get a better bite through the
    oxide layer, and though you need not pull the blade down quickly, you
    should try to exert a little pressure into the metal. Traditionally,
    with a saw, one is taught to let the blade do all the work, and to
    have a gentle touch on the saw frame, etc. With niobium and titanium,
    you need to back track a little on this advice. No, you don't need a
    death grip on the saw frame. But you do need to push the issue a
    little bit in order to get the teeth to bite through that oxide
    layer and into the metal. Too gentle, and the teeth will just slide
    off. And don't expect the blade to last all that long. It won't. 

    As to the problem of where the blade is jumping off to, ie your
    fingers, find a different way to hold the coil so your fingers are
    out of the way. How 'bout taking an extra ring clamp and cutting a
    bit of a groove in each face of the jaws with the flat end, just down
    from the outer end. A coil could now rest in that channel. Clamp very
    lightly, or don't even use the wedge, just hand pressure. But this
    gets your fingers out of the equation. 

    Also, your description makes me wonder if you're trying to cut with
    the blade parallel to the whole coil, cutting the whole coil at once.
    If so, then in general when cutting coils, angle the blade so you're
    not cutting the entire coil at once. Start at one end and work
    towards the other. The beginning of the cut is just in one wire, not
    multiples, and once you've started the cut in the first ring, that
    cut guides the blade into successive rings. No blade jumping. As you
    cut into the coil, you can lessen that angle a bit so your cut is
    into three or four wires simultaneously, but it works better not to
    ever lessen it entirely. As you cut through the rings at the
    beginning end, they fall off, or hang on the saw blade, keeping them
    out of the way. 

    If this gives you trouble, make a sawing jig for that size jump
    ring. That amounts to a mandrel similar to what you wound the rings
    on, but with a slot cut into one end. The mandrel can have one end
    fixed in a vise if you like, or held with pliers (though you start to
    need more fingers than you were born with sometimes (grin). The saw
    blade can start in the precut slot in the mandrel, angling into the
    first rings in the coil. As you cut, you'll slide the coil down the
    mandrel so you're always working near the end of the mandrel, which
    also allows the cut rings to drop off as you cut them free from the
    coil. 

    Personally, though, when cutting jump ring coils (and I do this with
    other metals too, including platinum and gold), my preference is to
    avoid sawing at all. I get the very thin seperating disks. These
    puppies, at.006 inches in thickness, or the slightly larger.010
    inches, leave a cut as thin, or thinner, than many saw blades (the.006
    leaves a cut not much larger than an 8/0 blade would do). Run them at
    medium high speed, use a bit of bur life or other lube if you like,
    and they'll slice down a coil of jump rings a lot faster than a
    sawblade will do. Often, I'm making very tiny rings, which I wind up
    on the shank of a small drill bit. Try sawing a coil of.4 millimeter
    wire wound on a #70 drill bit... But wind it up, leave it on the drill
    shank, hold that shank, and one loose end of the wire coil, in
    pliers, and thus steadied, the other hand is free to zip down the
    coil with the seperating disk. Done deal. The only down side to this
    is that the disks do wear out fairly quickly. But then it's not like
    sawblades last forever either, especially on difficult to cut metals.
    Buy the disks in a box of a hundred, and you'll be happily cutting
    jump rings for quite a while. Note that the very thin.006 ones are
    quite fragile. Use those for the smallest wire and jump rings. For
    most, the.010 size is more suited. I should note that usually, the
    quantity of rings I making at any one time is not more than a couple
    dozen or three. If you're making hundreds at a time, then the little
    seperating disks likely won't be long enough lasting to keep you
    happy. But for that quantity, if you do it often, you'll likely be
    wanting one of the dedicated tools like a jump ringer and it's
    cutting jig anyway. 

Hope that helps
Peter


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