[Jewelry making - Article 00075] - Re: [Orchid] Small Adventurers in the High-End Jewel Trade

[Melissa Veres]

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>     Did anyone actually think that she messed up those bezels? The
>     overall crude look of the piece is intentional, which I can
>     actually respect. The medium should be explored and used in as many
>     different ways possible. It is frustrating to see goldsmiths get
>     arrogant 

    I checked out the Times and viewed both the piece and read the
    article. There was a huge disconnect between the piece pictured, and
    the jewelers who were featured as having found their niche. The
    bracelet may be constructed to mimic what I call the "archeology"
    technique--crude setting, rough unfinished surfaces, etc., and there
    is a picture of the maker herself, in her studio. But the article
    focuses on those 2 gentlemen who have many years of fine, high
    quality work between them, in a more traditional vein. Frankly, aside
    from the pictures, her work isn't mentioned again. 

    We have visited issues of professional vs. hobbyist (for fun)
    jewelers here before. There is room for all to grow and be at a level
    of quality that is satisfying, and hopefully, profitable. When you
    take into consideration that the jewelers of antiquity had no power
    tools, no buffer, no flex shaft or hammer handpiece, they have made
    amazing art. Given that most of the commercial stuff all looks alike,
    brightly polished, rhodium plated and covered with a gazillion
    crappy melee, any individually minded person who wanted something to
    express their uniqueness won't be buying that stuff. There is a
    market outside those the two extremes, and I cannot see why you
    shouldn't spend a little time and take advantage of the equipment, to
    at least make a bezel snug and smooth. Pride in craftsmanship is what
    I am talking about! 

    If you look at the JCK nowadays, there are no more articles for the
    bench person, but lots of space dedicated to what celebrity is
    wearing whose designs. The emphasis in our trade is sales, not
    creativity. They choose to emulate and imitate, not to create. (Okay,
    I know most design is derivative, but let's try to bring out a new
    take on things, not just make more of the same, only cheeper!) Kudos
    to McTeague and McClelland for having found their space! 

Melissa Veres, Engraver
mveres AT fast.net


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