[Jewelry making - Article 00029] - Re: [Orchid] Resizing a ring with design work around it

[David L. Huffman]

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>         How do you resize a ring that has design work all the way
>     around it such as a celtic knot weave, etc? Also, how do you resize
>     a ring that has stones set around it's complete circumfrence without
>     messing up the space distribution

Hello Craig;

    It's simply not always possible in these situations. Here are some
    possibilities. In the case of the Celtic design, if there is a border
    on the edges of the ring, you might be able to shrink it down a half
    size, maximum, in the compression part of one of those lever operated
    ring stretchers. If there's no border, you risk damaging the design.
    If you need to make it larger, sometimes you can stretch it in said
    ring stretcher, but take it easy and watch what is happening, since
    stretching seems to occur mostly in the thinnest areas. I wouldn't
    think you'd get much more than a quarter, possibly a half size. You
    can also sometimes make an inner sleeve than can be soldered inside
    to reduce the diameter. Sometimes there's enough thickness to grind
    out a bit and get maybe an eighth of a size increase. 

    Now, the stone set ring is another matter. I've sized up eternity
    bands (set completely around with diamonds or other) in cases where
    the stones can withstand torch heat by cutting between two stones
    with a very fine sawblade, fitting in a piece and setting another
    stone or two. Obviously, this only works where the increase in size
    is commensurate with the width of the additional stone(s). Sizing
    down, the options are more or less limited to the aforementioned
    addition of an inner sleeve. Don't try stretching these kinds of
    rings, as the stretching will all take place in the areas beneath
    the stones. If the stones can't take heat and can't be unset, you'll
    need a laser to weld in the piece. And as for sizing down such a
    ring, it would be a case of cutting out a stone or stones, depending
    on how much you needed to reduce it, and again, the logic changes
    when the stones don't take heat. 

    These are obviously situations calling for advanced technical
    knowledge and skill. Perhaps you can post a URL to a jpg image or
    give us more information and one of us might be able to further
    advise you. 

David L. Huffman

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