[Jewelry making - Article 01275] - Re: [Orchid] Suggestions for stock to take to class

[Douglas Zaruba]

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Noel,

    I am teaching a bezels class at Metalwerx next week, so I have been
    busy preparing all types of bezels for this class. I can't imagine
    using a bezel material thinner than 28 ga., as the metal is so thin
    that while it will bend over the stone easily, it will also wear out
    quickly. I would use a bezel this thin or earrings, for example,
    since they do not see as much abrasion as a ring bezel, and light
    weight is definitely a good thing when making comfortable earrings. I
    will also have students make bezels from stock that is heavier than
    18ga. These are set using a hammer and punch, and have a very
    different look. There is also enough metal around the stone to do a
    polished inside edge on the bezel, to give it a perfectly flowing and
    finished look. Of course, if you are planning to cut a seat in your
    bezel with setting burs (for a faceted stone perhaps), then you
    certainly want a bezel with enough material that you will be able to
    accomplish this without cutting through the bezel wall. 

    I also NEVER use fine silver bezel wire. I know that a lot of people
    do (and a lot of people use a lot of easy solder, too),but I want the
    extra strength that sterling adds to the bezel. If it is that easy to
    bend closed, it will be easy to bend open, and stones may come loose
    eventually. After 30 years of making jewelry professionally, I have
    seen people do amazing things to their jewelry!  Incidentally, I also
    NEVER use stepped bezels. Just don't like the way they bend --- looks
    sloppy to my eye. 

    A survey of all the artists in our gallery showed that all of the
    bezels were at least .5mm thick, and most were closer to 1mm. We do
    carry some silver in the gallery, but most of the work is in 18k,
    22k, and platinum. I just finished a piece with a bezel wall
    thickness of 2mm. You are correct in stating that I wouldn't need a
    wall this thick just to hold the stone-it is an aesthetic choice. But
    I am also setting diamonds into the outer wall of the bezel, so the
    extra thickness allows me to do this without compromising the
    strength of the mounting or having the culets of the diamonds contact
    the bezel set stone. 

    There are also different ways of actually setting the bezel. Todd
    Reed's work, for example, uses a technique that most setters would
    find "incorrect." The top isn't flat. But he has made it into a style
    that is recognizable as his own. 

    Find out from the instructor what types of bezels will be taught,
    and what type of material will be used. Every instructor teaches a
    little differently. Personally, I prefer to supply the metal and
    stones for my classes, so everyone is working on the same basic
    projects. When they return to their own studios, they can go in their
    own individual directions, and they will know both HOW and (most
    importantly)  WHY. If you are curious, I will be happy to send you a
    copy of the handout I've prepared for my students, outlining the
    materials and techniques. Not the same as being in the workshop, but
    you'll see how many different types of bezels can be done. 

Doug
Douglas Zaruba
33 N. Market St.
Frederick, MD 21701
301 695-1107
dreamgate AT earthlink.net

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