[Jewelry making - Article 00309] - Re: [Orchid] Sizing rings 101

[Mark Shneyer]

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    Ring stretchers can destroy a ring if not done properly. (or
    attempted on an inappropriate ring style).  The 8 spleen stretchers
    are more forgiving because they spread the force around the
    circumference more than the 4 or 6 spleen. 

    A couple tips: 

    The only rings that can be safely stretched are continuous bands. If
    you stretch a ring with stones in it or a setting at the top be
    prepared to remake the ring. 

    Anneal the ring before stretching it especially on older rings that
    have been work hardened through wear. 

    As you stretch it you should consistently shift the ring so the
    spleens keep moving to a different position and distribute the stress
    around the ring. 

    If you can see or suspect a sizing line keep that spot on the solid
    part of a spleen so you don't stretch the solder because the solder
    will split. 

    Lastly, flip the ring every 1/4 size so you don't end up with a cone
    shaped inside or pass the size you want. 

    As for rings with stones: 

    There is a tool that vigor (and others) makes that will roll the
    bottom shank portion of a ring to enlarge it. This can be a handy tool
    at times.  It comes with a variety of dyes to match the shank shape
    too.  A word of caution...it's easy to warp the shank if done
    incorrectly. It's best to size vs. stretch since the latter will
    thin the shank.  I use this tool to even out sloppy shanks from
    previous work or to go up only a fraction of a size on rings with
    thicker shanks. 

Mark

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