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| Re: [Orchid] Laser soldering & Epoxy | ||
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From: Peter W . Rowe Date: Tue Apr 05 22:21:04 2005 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== > I tried to repair a piece of 22k jewelry with epoxy and it > didn't work very well. I'd like to have the piece laser soldered, > but I'm not sure if the epoxy will present a problem - and I can't > find information about how to remove the epoxy. The stones are > already set so heating the piece is not an option - [I could remove > the stones, of course, but would prefer not to.] > > Can anyone help? Can I laser solder the piece even if there is > some epoxy on it? If not, how do I remove the epoxy? Lasers, technically, usually weld, not solder. But that's a meaningless point. Just thought I say that... Anyway, the lasers work with such a brief small pulse at a time, that the rate at which the whole piece warms up can be kept to a minimum if needed. That's one of the beauties of the technology. So your joint can be done with the laser with no harm to either stones, or the epoxy, SO LONG AS the actual joint is not right in contact with the stones. There are two big limits to laser welding. One is that laser welding produces a weld that starts at it's widest at the surface, and proceeds into the metal from there. It's more of a surface weld than a deeply penetrating one, with penetration usually not much more than two to three times the width of the weld bead at the surface. The deeper the weld depth needed, the wider the weld zone will be. One gets around this by leaving joints fitted loosely, so it's a gap one can see into, and one welds it by starting to fill it in from the bottom, working out, with successive weld beads. But It's not like the invisible capillary joints solder makes, where solder will such deep down into a joint and be virtually invisible on the surface if done well. The laser leaves a visible surface weld. Done well, it's relatively small, and because it can be the same metal as being joined, can be fully cleaned up again later. But welding two different metals together can leave a visible odd looking zone, and if you need to joint two pieces without disturbing either outer surface at the joint, it can be difficult. There are usually ways around this, but it's sometimes a cause for a certain amount of needing to think through just how one is going to make the joint. The second thing to understand about laser welding is that the energy is in the form of light. Infrared, actually. And like any light beam we can see, that hits a nice reflective metal surface, the vast majority of the beam just reflects off. The welding with a laser is done by the small amount of the energy that is absorbed, not reflected. With 22K yellow gold, this is generally likely to be something like 2 percent of the energy of the beam. The other 98 percent reflects off. It is diverging rapidly, and a short distance from the weld, it just enough energy to sting a little if it hits your finger. But right next to the weld, it's still a pretty hot and intense beam of infrared. And that's where the risk to stones comes in. If the joint must be to metal that is actually in contact with the stone, and that metal is thin, then if the beam burns through, during welding, or if, as it reflects off the metal it then hits the stone, stones absorb much more of the energy. Diamonds, at lower settings of the laser generally can survive this, since they're highly transparent to infrared (so it just goes through), plus they conduct heat so well that it dissipates before doing damage. Higher settings will burn a diamond, and most colored stones simply cannot be allowed to be hit by any level of the laser or it's reflected beam. This does make some limits to what can be repaired with the laser. prong tips, thin bezel edges, and the like, can be difficult on colored stones. Often, there's still a way, but it can be dicey. Still, the beams are very tiny, as are the welds, so these limits generally apply onto to quite thin metal, or joints literally right in contact with the stone (like a crack right at the upper edge of a thin bezel, for example. Other than these scenarios, laser welding is remarkably versatile, and should be able to do most repairs you can imagine with your piece As to removing the epoxy, the commercial product, "Attack", a solvent of mostly M.E.K., usually does a fine job. Beware of using with any stones that may have been oiled or treated with resins (like emeralds), since it sometimes will remove THAT too... If you need help with the laser joint, feel free to contact me. I've got one at work, and another in my home shop. Prolly cost you mostly just postage, as the welding itself is quick and easy in most cases. (and I'm cheap...) cheers Peter Rowe Seattle ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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