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| Re: [Orchid] Etching and red and brown stains on brass | ||
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From: linlahlum Date: Fri Mar 11 20:42:51 2005 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== I'm hoping someone really knowledgeable will weigh in on this, but for now here's my suggestion. Is the brown a real smutty sludgey layer? If it is, it's that same coat I get when etching brass in Ferric Chloride. You need a chemical method of removal, rather than mechanical, to save your texture. Use a good copper cleaner, like Penny Brite, or a homemade vinegar /salt / flour solution (like Alma suggested here on Orchid, the other day when I posted about running out of Penny Brite.). It will take the brown right off. Then RINSE immediately and rub down with dish soap: for some reason a new layer of brown (and some new, prettier, but still unwanted colors) re-forms if you don't wash it well. I usually finish it off with a soak in water with a scoop of baking soda dissolved in it. I was told this would neutralize any ferric chloride lingering in the crevices. I soak overnight or a at least a few hours. (If anyone knows more about when and how long this should be done, let me know too. I'm just doing what I was told.) There's 2 possibilities for the red stains you're talking about. One: if you're soldering YELLOW brass, some of the copper in the alloy migrates and makes those marks, which can look a lot like little squiggles or lines, and seem to be fractionally below the level of the surrounding brass. You cannot sand those out: they seem to go deep inside. I have never been able to get rid of them, just try to hide them with the patina. Use red brass whenever possible: it doesn't do that. Sometimes you're stuck if using tubing, rod, or machined shapes; they seem to be made only in yellow brass, which, from my understanding, is more machineable than red brass. Soldering yellow brass multiple times or with high heat makes it worse. TWO : If the red is more of a rosy flush, then what you have is copper plating on top of the brass. If it's on a large flat area, sanding it off is still faster. Otherwise, use the Hydogen Peroxide Pickle recipe in the Archives. It's also listed on the Reactive Metals website. Do this only after all soldering is complete. It is stinky. It will also etch the surface lightly and leave it looking a little grainy, or like you could see the crystal structure of the brass. Which you then have to.... sand off. But at least heavy sanding will not be necessary. The red staining is worse if you pickle the piece; you can wash it instead. But it will turn red from the heat alone, too. If you are going to have a patina in the low recessed etched areas, then don't worry about the copper stain in there. Most patinas will work much better on the copper plate anyway: so use it to your advantage. After the patina it won't even look like copper in the recesses. Just polish the high parts to look like the original brass color. Good luck... Lin ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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