| |
|||
| The Gem and Jewelry World's foremost Resource on The Internet. |
| Re: [Orchid] Filigree Soldering | ||
|
[Thread Prev]
[Message Prev]
[Date Index]
[Thread Index]
[Message Next]
[Thread Next]
From: Bethkatz Date: Fri Feb 04 09:08:26 2005 |
||
========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== A wonderful product for soldering filigree is powder solder. This is a product that is used throughout the industry for doing this type of work. There are many other applications for powder solder such as sweat soldering all in one operation, but filigree is a prime application for the powder. You use Handy Flux and not a liquid flux when working with the powder. The flux needs to stand up to the job and not burn off quickly. As was mentioned in a previous post, one of the orchid members grinds off some solder to make it into a powder or very, very small chips and places it a the site to be soldered. The already made powder solder saves you the time and effort of making you own. All temperature flows are available, including extra easy. You had thought of soldering this type of construction in a kiln. This would work only of you have an inert atmosphere. It will not work in a regular kiln. BUT...... you can get the solder into all the nooks and crannies, that is an advantage of this type of solder since it is made into such fine particles. The heavy duty flux melts slowly as long as you do not overheat all at once, the powder stays in the flux and when it attains the proper temperature, it will melt. I have not tried to do the powder with a liquid flux in filigree, but the liquid flux just does not stand up to the powder as a general rule of thumb. I suggest that you work on a tripod with a screen and from the back up and apply the heat to the back of the piece (the filigree work is on the front). Then, just as you are seeing the solder start to flow, quickly go to the top of the piece. Since solder goes to heat, it will flow into the spaces as you direct the heat towards the areas that you want to be attached. Heat evenly from the back, you can direct just a little to the side, pulling the solder into the joins you want to make. It is a learning curve to get the correct temperatures so your piece does not melt. By putting the heat on the thicker part of the metal (back), you are able to bring the piece to the proper temperature without putting direct heat on the very thin wires of the filigree. Then, when the solder is ready to flow, you are ready to direct it into the proper place. Remember, you must have a good fit. No solder fills large gaps. Beth Katz http://www.myuniquesolutions.com Paste and Powder Solder for Jewelers and Metalsmiths ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
||
| Navigate: | ||
|
||
| Orchid Resources: | ||
|
Join & Post Invite a friend to join Orchid F.A.Q Galleries BenchExchange Orchid Message Archives [Subject Index] [Date Index] Ganoksin now offers a number of ways for you to stay on top of the latest from Orchid!
|
||
© Copyright 1996 - 2007, The Ganoksin
Project