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| Re: [Orchid] Copal vs Amber | ||
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From: Andrew Werby Date: Mon Nov 15 19:05:28 2004 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== > Copal amber and Baltic amber are considered two different things > because they come from different plant sources (from different > areas of the world) and they have different degrees of > polymerization. I'd agree with this if you didn't use the term "copal amber". Copal is one thing, amber is another. > Andrew suggested that "Copal is at most some hundreds of years > old, as opposed to amber which is millions of years old." This is > not really true. Copal often is some 500,000 to 1,500,000 years > old or more. Often? Have you got any authority for that? Did the person who told you that also want to sell you some? The experts I've heard opine on the subject tend to prefer a much lower age for copal. The earliest solidly dated copal deposits I've heard of are in Japan, and are ~33,000 years old. But most copal is much younger (see: http://www.emporia.edu/earthsci/amber/copal.htm ) . The commonly available Colombian material we were originally discussing is at most 1,000 years old and most of it more recent (see http://www.gplatt.demon.co.uk/typesof.htm ). Kauri gum, a New Zealand tree resin sometimes used for ornamental objects, is somewhat older; 10,000 to 30,000 years. But really, the absolute age isn't the issue as far as its usefulness is concerned. The properties of the material are dissimilar enough to make even the oldest copal quite different from the youngest amber. George Poinar, probably the worlds foremost expert on amber, draws a bright line at the 1.5 million year mark - anything younger than that isn't amber, period. Here's another reference pointing out the differences: http://www.uky.edu/ArtsSciences/Geology/webdogs/amber/copal.html ] > Both Copal and Baltic can exhibit a certain "gummy-ness" when > carved. You have to be careful how much heat from friction that > you create if you choose to try power tools; it is possible to > discolor and/or burn the amber with too much heat. Hand tools work > well. Having worked with both, I've noticed a big difference. Yes, it's possible to create a heat-affected zone in amber, especially if you use power tools too enthusiastically, but it won't turn to goo like copal will. > As a low cost material, Copal amber is a pretty altenative to the > much more expensive Baltic amber. Maybe for a while. But due to its greater volatility, it has a much more pronounced tendency to craze in the presence of oxygen, heat and UV exposure, making it a poor choice for jewelry purposes. > (Always remember to disclose that it is Copal amber to whomever > purchases your pieces; that keeps everyone happy.) Don't tell them it's any kind of amber - unless you're the sort of person who sells graphite as "young diamond" ... Andrew Werby www.unitedartworks.com ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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