[Jewelry making - Article 00687] - Re: [Orchid] Homemade burnout kiln

[Peter W . Rowe]

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>        super quick question here re: flower pot burn out kilns.  Does
>     this metihod get the investment hot enough to cure and harden
>     properly? If so, why do we take a flask to 1350 F during a regular
>     kiln burn out cycle? 

    Danny, i your hot plate or stove burner is adequate, you'll find that
    the flask under that hot plate WILL have reached a similar
    temperature range. heating the investment to 1350, by the way, is not
    to cure or harden it. Anything much over about 350 degrees will have
    done that (taking the temerature past the quartz inversion temp) with
    crystobalite based investments. (phosphate bonded platinum
    investments need to get hotter, as the investment must partially
    sinter for proper strength. This doesn't happen with the standard
    investments). The reason for that temp range is that it's about the
    hottest one should get such investments before one runs increased
    risk of the stuff starting to break down. And getting it that hot
    ensures a full burnout and removal of carbon residues. If you steam
    dewax, then there are much fewer residues, since little wax actually
    soaks into the dry investment to carbonize, and lower burnout temps
    will work just fine. And in the flowerpot, lower temps would also
    work fine if the time is extended enough so the investment looks
    fully burned out. 

Peter

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