[Jewelry making - Article 00152] - Re: [Orchid] Lighting for digital photographs

[diamondeddy2]

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    Margery, I think the key to such low powered halogen lighting is #1,
    the F-stop setting, which opens and closes the aperture , controlling
    the amount of light that enters the camera. The higher the number F
    stop, the less light enters, hence F3 lets in more light than F11. 
    #2 is the shutter speed. The longer the shutter speed , the longer
    the film, or digital media is exposed to the lighted subject. The ink
    pen shot was done with an F-stop of 3.5, so a pretty wide open
    aperture, allowing plenty of light into the camera. And the shutter
    speed was set to 1/3 second, allowing a nice long exposure to the
    subject. But remember, any shutter speed slower than about 1/30th
    second will require a tripod to hold the camera perfectly still.
    Also, use either a remote switch or a timer , to avoid any camera
    shake as the shot is taken. At these slow shutter speeds, even the
    lightest of touches to hit the button , will creat some shake and
    affect the picture quality. Low light requires slower shutter speed,
    more wide open apertures(smaller number), and complete steadiness to
    achieve good results. 

    The light from underneath helps alot in creating a nice floating
    affect. When the seams of the cocoon show, use Photoshop or any of a
    gazillion different image editing programs to clone them out. Also,
    shooting from a nice close range will eliminate alot of the
    background, or with software, take the item and place it into the
    background of your choice. Sometimes I shoot simply fabrics or items
    with various textures or patterns, just to use for "doctored" shots
    at a later date. I keep a rather extensive catalog of backgrounds
    that I have either shot, bought, or created in PS. 

Ed in Kokomo

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