[Jewelry making - Article 01110] - Re: [Orchid] Non-jeweler designers at shows

[despointes]

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    All the answers have a lot of right arguments. Nevertheless, it is a
    complex problem without a very clear answer. The rules and
    regulations of a particular show should be determined and read
    precisely. It is interesting to hear all the different opinions... 

    One of the answers really saddened me as an artist, jeweler and
    designer. I feel I have to speak up and address the issue. Once
    more, I read that people in the jewelry field today always see
    casting as a mass production tool and look down on it. It is such a
    cliche! 

    Historically some of the Roman jewelry, Renaissance jewelry and
    closer to us Art Nouveau were often cast. Those pieces were by no
    mean the cheaper pieces; quite the contrary! In fact they were
    destined to a very small educated and knowledgeable elite  that could
     afford it. In fact, in Roman times constructed jewelry was destined
    to a less wealthy market  who could not afford the heavy weight of
    cast pieces. The purpose of constructed jewelry was to to reduce the
    weight of the metal and therefore make it more affordable. 

    Today some of the most exclusive and expensive jewelry such as JAR do
    use casting when appropriate mixed with constuction. 

    I also use a mix of both casting when appropriate and constuction. I
    never take a mold of my pieces except occasionnally as a record for
    my archives, but do not like to repeat pieces. Sometimes I have
    carved pieces that involve over 200 hours of wax work and maybe 40
    hours of construction as I do use screws and bolts (that I do myself)
    rather than soldering. I hardly see how a one of a kind piece
    involving 240 hours of work could be called  mass produced. As a
    matter of fact I know few jewelers puting that kind of time on a
    single ring. I do it when I have the clientele and work on commission
    as I could not afford to put that kind of time on ready made piece. 

    Wax carving can be the best mean to achieve more flowing designs such
    as animals,  human figures, draperies, flowing shapes, fabrics and
    even some flowers,leaves or fruit... I do carve by hand and sometime
    even fabricate my own tools to suit my needs. 

    Today, a lot of people use wax carving and casting as a tool of mass
    production. It has tarnished the image of quality carving and
    casting. 

    A well designed and fabricated quality piece of jewelry is quality
    jewelry. Constuction, forming, casting or a combination of all of
    the above is not what determine the quality of workmanship in my
    opinion. 

    I have seen constructed "hand made" pieces of mediocre quality as
    well as bad carvings, great ones as well! 

Cyril

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