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| Re: [Orchid] Setting - cone shaped hole | ||
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From: The Doctor Date: Mon Aug 02 10:09:44 2004 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== > When I hear the word seat, I think of the way valves seat in an > engine head. They are lapped in to produce identical angles on > each part. Now it's starting to make a little sense to you, Jack. Automotive valves aren't faceted, so they fit perfectly flush in their seats. Your original question asked about bead setting faceted stones. I tried to explain that the seat involved in flush- or bead-setting is necessary to support the stone under the girdle with said girdle slightly below the surface of the metal. That is the function you've been missing here. This is necessary to allow the bead to be raised and set over the girdle from the top to hold the stone in place. I suppose if your hands are strong enough, the metal is thick enough and you're willing to gouge deeply enough, you could set a stone the way you imagined, but I think once you've tried it, you'll see what I mean. > My collets arrived in the mail a little later and I found the > Dremel totally useless for this tool. I have a speed control on it > but it is still too fast and just chatters and screams. The drill > runs about 200 RPM so I gather most commercial flex tools can be > run very slow for this operation. Is this correct? The ones I see > in the catalogs don't say anything about speed other than variable. Yes, that's essentially correct. Also, the flex tool most jewelers use is usually (but not solely) rated between 1/10 and 1/4 HP which provides more torque (and thus, control) at lower RPMs. Most are also used with a variable foot pedal. The problem with a hand-held Dremel is that the lowest setting is still running. A Foredom (or other brand) flex shaft is off when your foot is off, and turns at speed as you step on the pedal. It allows a lot more control. There are so many attachments and handpieces for these, it would make for an entire discussion board. To help with the screaming and chattering, a bit of lube on the bur may or may not help. Spit will work, but beeswax is better. Dave Sebaste mentioned a product called Bur-life. I got mine just last week and screwed the holder onto the front of my bench. The difference with sawing, filing, bur use, etc is really significant. A good quality flex shaft is expensive, but worth every penny. Mine is the $60 version that can be found just about anywhere, including Harbor Freight. However, I've used Phingst, Foredom, et al and can attest to their superiority, especially where it comes to the handpiece. Mine has some wobble in it that doesn't occur with the $250 and up friends' Foredoms I've used. If you're serious about a flex shaft, buy quality. You won't use it only for setting, I promise. James in SoFl where a lot of the weeds have burrs ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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