[Jewelry making - Article 00030] - Re: [Orchid] Setting - cone shaped hole

[John Burgess]

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G'day.   

    A first class jeweller once demonstrated to me personally, exactly
    how bead setting should be done, and why. The girdle of the stone
    must rest on a seat a little (around 0.2 mm or a little less) below
    the surface of the metal. A very sharp 'vee' graver is used to
    produce towards the stone, a fairly deep groove in the metal
    starting a few mm from the gemstone. As the graver cuts the metal it
    will push up a curl of the metal it has gouged out, in front of it,
    and stop a very short distance from the girdle of the stone. This
    curl is later formed into a bead using a tool with a tiny
    hemispherical hollow at the end - which looks nice - but this does
    not lock the stone in position. The graver will push a bump in the
    metal in front of it and it is that which moves over the edge of the
    girdle and holds it firmly in place; NOT the bead. Look at it with a
    powerful loupe and you will see what I mean quite clearly. The bead
    can be knocked off accidentally, but the tiny bump will continue to
    hold the stone. 

    So to sum up; 

    1. The girdle must rest on a shoulder in the setting hole so that
    it's edge is a little below the surface of the metal. 

    2.  The graver must cut deep enough so that it pushes a bump and a
    curl of metal before it. 

    3. It must be the tiny bump protruding slightly above the girdle
    that holds the stone 

    4. The curl of metal may be formed into a  little bead, on the
    understanding that it is NOT the bead holding the stone firmly in
    place, though it may help.   

Anyone disagree?                                                       
So~~~~~~~~~~~~
--Cheers for now,
JohnB of Mapua, Nelson NZ

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