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| Re: [Orchid] Drawing fine wire | ||
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From: Randy Smith Date: Sat Jul 31 09:04:20 2004 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== Hi Cathy, I profess to be the resident expert on drawing fine wire... I heard that you could draw an ounce of gold into a wire over a mile long, so I wanted to try. I used 22 kt wire that we alloyed from Jean Starks granulation class. I drew it to about 50 gauge, so small that you couldn't see it unless the light was shining on it. I found the draw plates from Allcraft. They start at 30 gauge and go from there. Called Filigree wire plates. I gave about 100 feet to Jean. She said "Why did you do this? I said, because you don't know anyone who has done it before....<Grin> She said, "What am I supposed to do with it?" I said, "You can't do anything with it until you have some."...<grin>... I know, I'm a smart alec. Drawing to 30 gauge was easy. The tricks which you have probably already learned aRe: 1) Use the tongs, but use a #6 file and file the teeth smooth. Then polish. Any roughness will cause the wire to break the next time. There are two type draw tongs, large and small. I used the small ones and it was easy to remove the serrations in the jaws. This is easier than using pliers, as the handles are bigger/longer and you can get a better grip on them. 2) I use a Black paper clip, the wide kind you use to hold an essay together, and put a wad of cotton in it. I soak the cotton with 3 in 1 oil, and clip it on the wire on the other side of the hole I am drawing through. That way, the wire continues to get lubricated as it goes through the draw plate. HERES THE TRICK!! 2) After you draw it through one hole and need to point the end for the next hole, use a split mandrel in your foredom tool, and put in a strip of about 800 sandpaper. Place the end of the wire on your finger, and use the sandpaper to taper the end, while turning the wire slightly. This won't take the skin off your hand, but you could use a glove if you have thin skin. As you get smaller gauges, use finer sandpaper. I used about 4000 girt (pink I think) as I got down to about 40 gauge. Then I used about 8000 grit for the remainder. After you get past 30 gauge, you can't really tell if you have a taper or not, just poke it in the next hole and see if it goes through. 3) Anneal after every other hole you draw it through. As soon as the wire becomes "springy", anneal. I annealed in a kiln after about 26 gauge. I used one of the tabletop "melon" kilns. I turned the kiln up to full power, and left the gold wire in there for about 15 minutes. I annealed till the 22 kt gold got black, then pickled. Love and God Bless -randy http://www.rocksmyth.com ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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