[Jewelry making - Article 00035] - Re: [Orchid] Enameling Repair

[Ornamental Creations]

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Hi David,

>         I have an account who specializes in "estate" jewelry who
>     keeps pestering me to repair enamel pieces. The articles in
>     question are usually transparent enamels over engine cut patterns
>     (guilloche?). 

    I'm guessing that they usually have only one color on them? And that
    the enamel is a fairly thin layer? 

>         Should I attempt to match the enamel, fill and fire, stone and
>     polish, 

    You could but it might be hard to match the exact color, thickness,
    transparency, firing temperature, C.O.E. etc... of the enamel left
    on the damaged piece without knowing the exact type of enamel
    previously used, weather it was leaded or lead free, the color and
    company that made the enamel. And if it didn't match really well you
    would notice the repaired patch. Also the stoning, and polishing may
    have a different texture depending on the hardness of the previous
    enamel, and the new enamel fill. If you knew the exact enamel used
    on the object it might work to go about it that way. 

>     or is there a good way to remove all the old damaged enamel? 

    Possibly, heating and quenching the piece in cold water (as you
    mentioned) can be a way to remove some of the enamel but it might
    not all come off. There are chemicals that some enamelists use to
    remove enamel, but these are potentially very dangerous and require
    appropriate safety precautions. You may also have to consider what
    surface re-preparation you might have to do to the metal before you
    could re-enamel the piece, depending on what the base metal is, and
    how it was originally treated to accept the enamel when it was made.
    Here's a link to an article which discusses enamel removal, it also
    mentions the chemicals some enamelists use, and VERY important notes
    about safety in the use of those chemicals: 

    http://enews.heywoodenamels.com/V1_No5_March_2002/eNAMEL_hydrofluoric_aci d.html

>     Any of you experienced in this kind of work? 

    Though I've enameled for many years I'm not very experienced in
    repairs, it would be very hard for me to suggest the best approach
    for you to take in the removal of and restoration of enamel on the
    articles you've mentioned, especially without being able to see each
    object, and know it's specific history. 

>     I've heard the ultraviolet cured resins are a possibility, but I'm
>     not ready to pony up for that setup just yet. 

    Yes there are several non-enamel materials that can be used to fill
    a damaged area on an enameled object, and the ultraviolet cured
    materials are one choice. I believe that using those type materials
    would be considered more a "repair" than a "restoration" of the
    enameled object, and may effect the value of the object since it
    would not be the original type of vitreous enamel material the
    "estate" piece was made with. There are several factors to consider
    when deciding how to repair or restore an "estate" piece, and which
    process to choose, vitreous enamel or other synthetic resins and
    composites. Both have their place and uses depending on all the
    contributing factors in the repair. 

    I was hoping that you might get some more directly useful answers
    from other Orchadians with more experience in enamel repairs than I
    have. However since you haven't had any other replies I will try to
    be of some help by including links with information on them, as well
    as suggesting that you email Allan Heywood enamelist / enamel
    restoration expert, at eNAMEL Online Newsletter :
    enews AT heywoodenamels.com  or  info AT heywoodenamels.com 

    Or email / phone Bill Helwig or Tom Ellis, enamelists at Thompson
    Enamel and Glass On Metal magazine:
    http://www.glass-onmetal.com/ask_the_experts/index.htm Thompson
    Enamel, Inc. 650 Colfax Ave. Bellevue, KY  41073 (859) 291-3800 
    http://www.thompsonenamel.com 

    All of them are very knowledgeable and you could ask them about some
    common ways to go about the task you are considering undertaking and
    where to find literature on the process. 

    It can be a difficult and complicated process to remove and restore
    enamel to "estate" objects. I do not do any repairs of other
    enamelists works... as there are many variables and a good number of
    things that can go wrong. I always recommend an enamel restoration
    specialist such as Allan Heywood to the many people who inquire with
    me about an enamel repair. http://heywoodenamels.com 

>      The articles in question are usually transparent enamels over
>     engine cut patterns (guilloche?). I've tried heating and quenching
>     in water, but the stuff really hangs in there. If I go at it with a
>     hammer and tool, I'm likely to damage the pattern underneath. 

    Yep vitreous enamel is stubborn and can be hard to remove! Ice cold
    water may work a bit better than room temperature. You are certianly
    right in your thinking that it would be unwise to take a hammer to
    the enamel if you want to remove it! 

    While a lot of it will come off, if it's vitreous enamel, even after
    hammering the heck out of it some amount of enamel will still
    probably cling to the metal surface, and you will VERY likely damage
    the pattern on the base metal as you correctly surmised and
    mentioned in your post... I've damaged metal patterns in the past
    trying to remove enamel from my own piece I was working on, well
    maybe I really just hit it with the hammer to release some
    frustration over a mistake I'd made in the enamel. <biggrin> 

    Another place you might look for information is on a web page called
    "Useful Stuff" loads of articles linked there:
    http://enews.heywoodenamels.com/common/eNAMEL_useful_stuff_01.html 

    I guess the other problem in taking on an enamel repair is as you
    get deeper and deeper into either the filling or removal of the
    enamel and repair or restoration of the object... if you have any
    set backs in the process, how much time will it take you to get a
    good result, and what will you have to charge in order to make it
    worth YOUR while?! In the end sometimes it is cheaper to pay an
    expert, and be done with it, rather than you having to learn on the
    piece and spend more time than you are getting paid for. 

I wish you the best of luck with the piece / pieces.
Sharon Scalise
Ornamental Creations
sscalise AT tampabay.rr.com
http://users.netconnect.com.au/~sscalise/

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