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Re: [Orchid] Technology & Design  
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From: Neil George
Date: Mon Apr 05 22:41:45 2004
 
     
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    A jeweller who is capable of making a hand made piece from scratch,
    is trully a *skilled* artisan, and should be regarded as a *great*
    asset to any entity that provides that individual with a living.
    Whether as a business owner, or an employee, neither could function
    to the best of it's ability without that indivual. 

    In the same token, and taking into consideration, that Cad/Cam does
    not *only* encompass the jewellery industry. It has very important
    influences on industries that are apparrent in our daily lives, and
    some which may not be so obvious. Cad/Cam is an invaluable tool to
    say the least. Therefore, a *skilled* Cad/Cam operator is also a
    *great* asset to have on board. 

    Now the key to this in the jewellery industry, is the ability of an
    individual to create the perfect balance between Cad/Cam and old
    school ability. Granted, and I would agree, that the work that most
    jewellers have seen, promoting Cad/Cam, would give many the wrong
    impression. The ones who succeed, are the ones that have the old
    world skills and are adapt at utilizing Cad/Cam to enhance their work
    and not detract from it. Therefore the important thing to acknowlegde
    is that *balance* is the key. Just as a Cad/Cam operator using the
    technology straight out of the box will never become a power house
    until he or she starts to get creative and fully understand where
    Cad/Cam begins, and Cad/Cam ends, and more importantly, knowing when
    to bring the old school ability into the fold to now make a trully
    remarkable piece. 

    Conclusion:- an individual who is a *skilled* artisan, and a
    *skilled* Cad/Cam operator becomes a *phenominal* entity. 

    Jeffrey Everett, is one of those individuals that in my opinion has
    the perfect balance. Another is Phil Poirier, who utilizes the Bonny
    Doon Press with Cad/Cam, goldsmithing and silversmithing skills to
    make perfectly balanced pieces of art and jewellery. His pieces are
    not inexpensive, and the work reflects that. He is a skilled artisan
    that has put all of the tools at his dispossal to create pieces that
    are very difficult to beat. Abrasha, is another one. His work is not
    my cup of tea, but I really do respect how he utilizes a mill, a
    lathe and a drill press in many of his pieces. He is another skilled
    artisan, that has the comprehension of how to make a balanced piece
    and fully understands where the technology starts and ends. 

    A simple example of a balanced piece using a full eternity with
    prongs. Jeweller:- 

	1) Make the ring blank
	2) Layout the stones, drill and azure the back.
	3) Cut the seats for the prongs in a form of a groove.
	4) Lap and pre-polish the ring.
	5) Solder on the prongs and trim to size and finish off the inside.
	6) Set Stones.
	7) Final Polish.

	Finished.

    Jeweller and Cad/Cam operator:- 

	1) Make the ring blank using either RP or a 4th axis and cast.
	2) Layout of stones, already done but still needs the hand azuring on the
	back to give it a hand made look.
	3) Seats for the prongs in a form of a groove are already in the blank.
	4) Lap and pre-polish the ring.
	5) Solder on the prongs and trim to size and finish off the inside.
	6) Set Stones.
	7) Final Polish.

	Finished.

    The finished piece still involves the skilled bench work, but the
    indo-synchroses have been eliminated. The finished piece will stand
    side by side with the one done by hand and will command the same
    price points. I have seen many make the whole eternity ring via 4th
    axis and RP, and this is why they never look the way they should.
    Cad/Cam will never give you prongs that look nice and drawn,
    therefore, the importance of putting into the piece the right
    combination of artistry utiziling a combination of skills is of the
    utmost importance. Starting with a Cad/Cam blank, and soldering on
    drawn wire for the prongs, will have that hand made look and feel,
    but not necesserily be, a 100% hand made item. At the end of the day,
    the customer is looking for price and quality, and the individual
    utilizing all of the skills and tools to manufacture a balanced well
    made piece will be the winner, regardless of the fact that it was
    complety made by hand, or a combination of mentioned skills. That's
    all for now. 

Best Regards.
Neil George
954-572-5829


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