[Jewelry making - Article 01108] - Re: [Orchid] Soldering Enormous Bezels

[LEESSILVER]

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    Hi Lee, I got to your post late.  I use the solder from underneath
    technique.  You have to heat slowly and very evenly or as you found
    out you end up with the plate warping.  You did not mention what
    gage of backing plate and bezel you are using. 

    If I was to do the project I would cut 1/8 " high bezel pieces from
    18 gage sheet.  I would pin the four pieces to a fire brick to form
    a 2x3' bezel.  You do not have to cut them accurately at this stage.
     Let one end overlap at each corner.  Solder the pieces at the
    corners.  Then cup off the overlap once the frame is soldered. I
    would use 18 gage sheet for the backing.  Cut the back larger then
    the bezel frame.  Set the edges of the backing on two seperated fire
    bricks. The backing plate should be large enough so that the bezel
    is above the opening of the fire bricks.  This will allow the bezel
    to get heated as you heat the backing from underneath.  

    Be sure to coat the back side of the backing with anti-fire scale
    flux. Run paste flux on the front of the plate under the bezel. I
    make several marks on the bezel side with a Sharpie pen.  I found
    the marks start to disappear as the metal gets close to medium
    solder temperature. 

    Heat the plate from below with a large acetylene torch.  Move the
    torch over the entire surface of the plate.  Don't rush it.  If you
    concentrate the flame in one spot the plate could warp.  Once the
    plate has reached solder temperature slide the assembly on to one of
    the fire bricks and move the torch to the top side and run it around
    the bezel.  

    Place the assembly on two separated fire bricks with the bezel down
    and heat from underneath when soldering on the buckle findings.  Be
    careful not to heat the bezel too much or you might melt it. Jump
    the flame to the top side on the buckle loop and post. 

    Trim the backing to the bezel.  Epoxy the stone in the bezel.  I
    like to rough up the back of the stone and the inside surface of the
    backing before applying the epoxy.  

    Just a thought.  A 2x3" buckle assembly would not have much twisting
    strength. Will the stone be strong enough to handle twisting?  A
    buckle that large would not do well with a thin gage bezel folded
    against the stone.  

   That's my two cents.
   Lee  Epperson


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