[Jewelry making - Article 00500] - Re: [Orchid] Invisible set repair

[kevdan]

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    I have worked on a bunch of those horrible things I filled in for a
    friend of mine one summer while he went on vacation. He worked for a
    real lousy chain store in the mall, there is not enough super glue
    in the whole universe to keep those rings together. I have made
    several invisible set rings but I try to avoid doing it because it
    is difficult to get all matching stones with the cut at the same
    height so you don't have high ones and low ones and sometimes the
    cut is not deep enough to really get a good bite on the stone. The
    large manufactures would have piles of them to sort through to find
    just the right stone but I have to make do with what I was sent.
    Most of you who have done repair have probably seen how they are put
    together and it is a simple idea but it leaves you with only one try
    to get the stone in tight and after that you are pretty much
    screwed. They also almost always make them out of 18k green because
    it is real soft and they get less breakage when setting them but it
    sure doesn't help them stay in. Even when you send them back to the
    manufacturer to have the stones reset they just give it to some
    knucklehead to glue in and hope they stay in just long enogh so as
    they can say it is not their fault. The pieces that I have seen that
    where done by Van Clief and Arpels are amazing, They are done by
    hand and the gallery work that holds the diamonds in is usually in
    platinum and the stones look like they were cut with the setter
    sitting next to the faciter and telling him exactly what to cut so
    as to get a perfect fit. I think some styles of setting don't lend
    themselves to mass production. just my humble opinion 

sincerely Kevin Potter


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