[Jewelry making - Article 00262] - Re: [Orchid] Oxy-hydrogen torch recommendations

[FrodoGem]

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    I have some good things to say about my Hydroflux Welder along with
    a couple of warnings and questions: 

    I have been using my Hydroflux exclusively on my fabrication bench
    for about the last 5 years.  The largest tip is sufficient to solder
    a large heavy man's ring or to harden and temper 1/4 inch drill rod.
     I like it because it requires less space than welding tanks and
    does not require a time consuming trip to the welding store for
    refills.  It also is able to achieve smaller more focused flames
    than most oxy-acetylene. 

    Problems:  My first problem was that I noticed that the maximum heat
    available for my larger tips was diminishing.  The flame would start
    out large then gradually reduce in size.  During maintenance, I found
    that the nuts that fastened the secondary transformer coils to the
    reactor chamber electrode circuit had become loose. Loose connections
    in a high amperage circuit produce a lot of heat.  The heating and
    cooling probably caused the connection to become looser over time. 
    Tightening the nuts solved the problem.  I now check them during
    annual maintenance. 

    A problem that continues to bother me is the sight tube to check the
    level of the electrolyte.  It is a short length of clear polymer
    tubing connected to the reaction chamber so that the electrolyte in
    the tubing maintains the same level as in the reaction chamber.  The
    user is supposed to maintain the level in the chamber by frequently
    checking the level in the sight tube.  However, the electrolyte
    becomes discolored over time and discolors the sight tube until it
    is very difficult to determine the electrolyte level.  I correct
    this problem by replacing the sight tube during annual maintenance. 
    However, the sight tube is located in a place where replacement is
    difficult and somewhat frustrating.  It is important to note that
    the handle hose and sight tube are not made from the type of plastic
    tubing that is available at the hardware store; the manufacturer
    should be contacted for the tubing specifications.  (I found an
    industrial polymer tubing called "Tygon" that might work but have
    not contacted the manufacturer about it.) 

    My third problem occured just last week when I struck up my torch
    after several days of inactivity.  After a period of inactivity, the
    mixture in the line becomes less flammable.  (I'm not sure of the
    reason, but suspect that alcohol and water vapor replace the
    oxy-hydrogen mix)   When striking the torch after a period of
    inactivity, I usually let the gas generator run for a minute or so
    to build up pressure, put on the largest tip and flush the line with
    fresh gas before striking.  In this case, I was in a hurry and tried
    lighting the torch too soon. 

    The mixture in the chamber, the hose, and the handle is generated as
    a perfectly proportioned flame reaction mixture.  The torch must be
    designed in a way to prevent the flame from following the perfect
    mixture back to the source.  The first defense against a "backfire"
    is the velocity of the gas as it is ejected from the tip.  It
    literally "blow out" any fire that tries to follow the mixture back
    to the source.  In my case, the unit had not come up to pressure and
    the flame was able to follow the mixture back into the inside of the
    handle.  my hose was saved from the fire by the second line of
    defense: a sintered metal filter in the handle.  

    When the fire first started, I was not aware that there was a fire. 
    Only when the handle began to get too hot to touch did I realize
    what happened.  I turned off gas generator as soon as I became aware
    of the problem.  However, by now a supply of gas had built up inside
    the generator that continued to feed the fire.  The handle continued
    to grow hotter.  When I realized that the fire was continuing to
    burn, I detached the hose from the handle.  I had a bit of
    anticipation over this, knowing that the gas in the hose would be
    released in the vicinity of my too-hot-to-hold handle.  Hopefully, I
    can repair the handle by replacing the melted O-rings.  I have
    e-mailed the manufacturer for specifications and instructions. 

    This accident was caused by my failure to follow the manufacturer's
    instructions which clearly stated that I should allow the pressure
    to build before striking the torch.  I came out with only minor
    burns on my hand from detaching the hose from the hot handle. 
    Please believe me, I will not forget to follow this particular
    instruction again. 

    My question:  does anyone know on which end of the sintered filter
    in the handle that the O-ring goes?  I was a little hasty
    dissembling the handle.  Does it go on the tip end or the hose end? 
    If you know, please respond off-forum. 

Thanks,
Howard Woods
feeling somewhat foolish and
Anticipating the spring bloom in my Eagle Idaho garden.


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