[Jewelry making - Article 00236] - Re: [Orchid] Using arrow heads in jewellery

[David L. Huffman]

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>         Hello, I have recently been asked if I would make a silver
>     belt . . . . Is a bezel set do-able and could a cushioned back be
>     made for the arrow head, like out of some type of rubber compound?
>     Thanks, Jeannette 

    Hello Jeannette; My advise would be to not back the arrow head with a
    soft material, but rather, mix up some quick setting epoxy on a piece
    of wax paper and set the head into it.  One of the putty type epoxies
    that you knead to mix would best allow you to position the head
    level.  When it sets, saw pierce out the entire profile (watch out
    not to touch the arrow head with the saw blade) and you'll have a
    flat bottom as well as the support of the epoxy (this idea was shown
    me by one of our Orchid posters, Micky Roof).  And if it's possible,
    why not use a fine silver bezel, as this will be measurably softer
    than sterling.  Instinct tells us that you'd use thin material, but
    I'd suggest something else.  Use a heavier gauge, at least 24 gauge. 
    Leave a 1/2 millimeter space around the head.  Place the head in the
    bezel, then use a sharpie marker to trace the contour of the head on
    the inside of the bezel, about 1.5-2 millimeters above the edges of
    the head.  Cut down the bezel along this contour.  Remove the arrow
    head.  Then, using a bearing bur, 45 or 90 degree, cut along the
    inside of the bezel, at the height of the edge of the arrow head, all
    around the bezel, about halfway through the thickness.  This will
    create a point at which the bezel will fold inward. Now use a sanding
    disk in your flex shaft to taper outside top of the bezel inward at a
    gradual taper thinning to less than half the original thickness (all
    the way around).  Now I'm going to offend the purist by suggesting
    you glue the arrow head into the bezel, with enough epoxy to fill up
    to the edge of the arrow head.  Use a q-tip to wipe away all excess
    that is above the hinge cut in the bezel and any on the arrow head. 
    When the epoxy sets, use a bezel pusher or hammer and chasing tool to
    begin folding the bezel inward, but not snug down upon the arrow
    head.  Start working it down at the point, on the outside, which is
    just above that hinge cut.  Your last effort will be to roll the
    tapered edge inward and down upon the arrow head.  A chop-stick or
    orange stick will do this without scratching the stone, but if that
    doesn't provide sufficient force, you can chase with the hammer and
    tool, just make sure you don't let the tool contact the arrow head. 
    What you will finally have is a bezel that appears quite thick, but
    is really a rolled rim.  It's function is to protect the stone, but
    it is not the primary agency of holding the stone in place, even
    though it appears that way.  If you can get the edge to actually roll
    under before it contacts the stone (arrow head, whatever), if it
    loosens at any time, you can hammer on the top of this roll with a
    chasing tool and bring it down on the stone. Done right, this will
    amaze your jeweler friends who will ask, "how did you manage to pound
    that chunky metal down on that piece of glass without breaking it?" 

David L. Huffman



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