[Jewelry making - Article 00179] - Re: [Orchid] Open Back or Not

[Beth Rosengard]

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Hi Linda,

    I too use closed-back bezels for all but faceted stones.  The
    purists among us will probably oppose this practice but as the
    designer/maker, I want to be the one who controls the color of the
    stones I use.  The only way to do this is to use closed back bezels
    and sometimes to foil-back the stones, as you already do.  A
    blue-green tourmaline cab in a gold bezel will become a yellow-green
    tourmaline if it is not backed; pink will become peach or orange,
    etc. 

    The only alternative that I know of is to create a fairly high
    gallery for an open-backed stone.  If it's high enough, sufficient
    light will enter from the back to prevent or at least minimize color
    change.  This is probably the most professional and traditional
    method for setting cabs but it is also the most labor-intensive and
    time-consuming.  In the interest of controlling color and keeping
    time/labor investment at a reasonable level, I prefer closed-backed
    bezels. 

    Where faceted stones are concerned, the issue is usually irrelevant.
     In a well-cut stone, light will never reach the backing, rendering
    it unnecessary. 

Beth


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