[Jewelry making - Article 00054] - [Orchid] How do you Gypsy or Flush Set stones?

[Gerald]

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    This the procedure for any size of diamond or gem stone. The
    following tools are needed; ring holder, 156C under-cutting burs,
    round burs, brass pushing rod, flat ended pumice wheels (180 grit ),
    flat graver #39. 

    Secure the ring solidly into your ring clamp. Eye-ball the size of
    the diamond to the hole that is drilled already and obtain a round
    bur 80% the size of the stone. The remaining 20% is what the metal
    should be securing the diamond with. Use a under-cutting bur and
    proceed to make a seat for the girdle for the stone, remember that
    the set diamond must be flush with the surrounding metal once the
    stone is set. Under cut a seat all around the hole, check now with a
    10x loupe making sure that the seat is at the same level. Do not
    over drill into the wall, you must only insert the drill till you
    cannot see the rotating teeth any more. If you are satisfied that
    the procedure is accomplished and to your expectations 'snap' in the
    stone. Do not snap in, straight in, it isn't going to work this way.
    Place the stone in on an angle and slide it in side to side. You
    will notice now that the diamond appears to be lower than the
    surrounding metal, don't worry. 

    Now proceed to use your brass pusher, as with the steel pusher it
    leave deep marks in your gold. Push over the metal into 4 equal
    sections round that stone. You should not compress but only push to
    tighten. Once that the gold is evenly sitting on the gold, use a
    pumice wheel to clean up all of the marks left by the push rod. Do
    not use a tapered pumice wheel but only a flat ended wheel. Now for
    the final stage of clean-up, you can now use a flat graver of #39
    width. As described in one of my previous notes, bright-cut around
    the inner wall of the bezel till you achieve a nice uniform cutting
    action. 

Gerry, the Cyber-Setter
http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com


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