[Jewelry making - Article 00186] - Re: [Orchid] Frustration

[David Keeling]

========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm  ]========


Hi Judy, and all

    The reason you are having difficulty is...what you are doing takes a
    long time and many errors to learn. It's not you. 

    The brand new, very sharp undercutting burr is the hardest to use
    for a relative novice. If the setting is a commercial one, it is
    probably kind of thin, and may torque, or twist if the burr catches
    and binds a couple of the claws while spinning out of control. Try
    to be patient, and you will eventually be successful. If there is
    one tip that I may offer you about using undercutting burrs while
    you are learning, it is to use one that is considerably smaller than
    the stone diameter to start the seat, or to use a small ball burr to
    mark the location of the cut. Once you have established a bearing
    where the larger undercut burr will spin without catching, you will
    find some relief. 

    I use undercut burrs to cut the seat in one claw at a time. Sounds
    weird, but I seldom overdo a cut. I'll try to explain this clearly.
    Use a burr that is about 50% of the diameter of the stone. Slip it
    inside the head, and cut the bearing into the claw which is on the
    left...that is, the one at 9 o'clock that you can see from its side,
    and look at it while cutting. Hold the piece firmly, and rotate the
    burr at a relatively slow speed until it establishes a mark, and
    then , in increments, cut the bearing to a workable depth and
    profile. Think of it as 'carving". Then rotate the setting until you
    have an unworked claw on the left again, and cut a matching bearing.
    Repeat this until you have cut all four, or six if that is what you
    are using. 

    Why the one on the left? This is important. 

    Because of the rotation directionof the motor, the burr wants to act
    like a tire and travel clockwise from where it  first catches. It
    finds traction, and travels, or "walks", often cutting or marring
    where you don't want it to. it goes out of control. if you hold the
    handpiece very firmly, and the ring clamp very firmly, and only make
    contact with the one claw on your left, you are taking advantage of
    the strongest muscles in both your hands which will resist the
    burr's inclination to walk away from you, from the nine o'clock
    position to the 12 o'clock position, which is where it ALWAYS goes.
    Your right hand  can offer enough resistance to the burr goiung
    forward, simply by gently applying some pressure toward you, or
    toward the six o'clock claw, without touching it. Once the cut is
    established, go to the next. 

    Eventually, you may need to try to drop the stone into the setting,
    and eyeballing its fit. Is the available diameter in your fully-cut
    bearing the same as that of the stone? If it is close, or right on,
    bend two of the claws outword from ABOVE the bearing in order to
    allow you to drop the stone right into the bearing. If the seat is
    correct, and the claws can be bent forward without pinching the
    girdle of the stone, you will have little trouble. If the stone
    rocks within its bearing, the bearing will require some correction.
    Be patient, and you'll get it right. Don't cut corners or take
    chances with a bearing which doesn't match the profile of the stone. 

    If you want to practice cutting a bearing in the way that I have
    described without wrecking anything, try this. Use a pin vise, and a
    piece of heavier wire, about 1 mm. Secure the wire in the pin vise,
    and try to make a bearing cut with your undercut burr on the right
    side of it, as if it were the claw on your left that I described. It
    will walk, and catch, and make you crazy until you find a way to
    feel the fine control necessary to hold both the vise and the
    handpiece steadily and securely enought to prevent the burr from
    going out of control. Gentle pressure toward you, with the burr
    spinning at a moderate speed. Use it like a saw, establishing a mark
    and chipping away at it until you have a pleasing depth, as you
    would on a claw. You will develop a "feel' for what you need to do
    when working on an actual setting. 

    Do you use regular bearing cutters as well, or "setting" burrs? They
    are the ones with the vertical sides, and a cone-shaped bottom which
    mimics the pavillion of a diamond. These are less aggressive in
    their cutting, and if you use the size which matches the (diamond?)
    diameter, you will generally get an accurate, workable bearing. Not
    idiot-proof, but better for the novice. 

    You really need to study the profile of the stone as well. Is it a
    well-cut diamond? Thick girdle? Thin? Coloured stones require more
    careful study, and often I find that each claw must be cut to match
    a particular area of an uneven girdle. 

    You will find that your success depends on your willingness to
    accept failure, and to learn from your mistakes.If you need more
    help, feel free to call me at my studio, and I will try to help in
    any way that I can. 

(780) 424-7773

Good luck!
David
www.davidkeelingjewellery.com


____________________________________________________________________
T h e   O r c h i d   L i s t
Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures
____________________________________________________________________
Orchid FAQ:
~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm
Orchid Archives:
~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive
Orchid Galleries:
~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm
Invite a Friend:
~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm
____________________________________________________________________
Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive
~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm
The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List
~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books
Buy Orchid Jewelry:
~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop
____________________________________________________________________
-Unsubscribe:
-Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank
____________________________________________________________________