[Jewelry making - Article 00242] - Re: [Orchid] Fusing Sterling to Sterling

[Noel Yovovich]

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    Hi, Joe, I am fairly new to fusing, but have been doing a fair
    amount of it. You're right, it's all heat control. I prefer to use
    much thinner metal, and generally like the texture, which makes it
    easier, but do some that is thicker and smooth. I found this
    virtually impossible with my Smith acetylene/air torch, but now use a
    Meco Midget propane/oxy set-op. I do all heating from the front, with
    a large bushy flame-- a large tip set fairly low-pressure. The trick
    seems to be to heat the backing as much as possible, keeping the
    torch moving all the time. The fusing takes place when the surface of
    the backing begins to "sweat", just short of melting. With great 
    attention, the sweat is brushed toward the top piece, and you should
    see the liquid run along the seam just like solder. Beware-- the
    center is not always where the action is. While you are staring just
    in front of your flame, the workpiece may actually be hottest in a
    circle half an inch or so away! You may have better luck using a back
    layer that is a step lighter than the added pieces. If you pickle
    between, be sure to neutralize with baking soda. But, believe it or
    not, you don't need flux or pickle until you're done! I learned
    fusing at the Revere Academy, from Marne Ryan, and we never pickled
    until we were done for the day, and we only fluxed when fusing gold
    to silver. It may also help you to run each layer lightly through 
    the roller mill after fusing it. I have to ask, though-- if you don't
    want the texture so unique to fusing, why not solder or even cast?
    Pretty tough to do multiple layers without getting texture. HTH 

--Noël


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