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| Re: [Orchid] Casting sheet silver | ||
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From: jesse brennan Date: Wed Oct 01 01:12:11 2003 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== Frank's answer is correct to a point. Plaster molds are a viable technique used industrially. They are usually used for zinc and aluminum casting but occasionally are used for bronze and other copper alloys. I use them as cores in sand casting bronze as well as cores in ceramic shell investment molds. The Plaster can be molding plaster about 50-50 with fine sand or any plaster investment material. I use molding plaster with 60 80 mesh silica sand. Idealy you would use an entraining plaster mix but I haven't. The molds MUST be baked to remove Water before casting and used quickly because the material will pick up water again after it cools. Molds for aluminum and other lower melting metals are baked to 400- 500 F to be useable. Molds for bronze and higher melting metals ( which would include silver) are baked to what would be normal investment casting burn out temperatures - 1200F would be a normal maximum temperature but 900 F would be OK and risk less damage to the plaster. 900 F wax burn outs cast in bronze have been found to be very satisfactory. Your mold would not have wax to burn out but the 900F temperature should be reached. You can expect some small porosity in what you are planing . Black discoloration on the surface if any will be the result of breakdown of the gypsum plaster - a sulfur compound. Depending on the size the mold is very simple and will look like a small version of a mold to make wax sheets for wax sculpture to be investment cast in bronze , or whatever. Start with a flat non porous surface - wood, glass a poly cutting board or the like . Lay a sheet of a similar material thicker than you want as big as you want on top of this and build a retaining box around this with a little space for a plaster wall to form. cardboard , tape or even plastiline works. coat the surface to be coated with a mold release such as Pam, vegetable oil, wax or a silicone compound - I use silicone "tire shine"from an auto parts store . Mix you plaster mix. Pour in - let set. Remove mold box . Turn over the mold and carve any details in the surface . Proceed to dry out the mold . The cores I use in bronze sand molds have only been baked out to kitchen oven temperature,and kept in a sealed metal can until use a few hours later- this is not ideal but if the core is vented well they work great. In ceramic shell molds the core goes to the burnout and vitrification temperature just before pouring.These cores are also installed so they re well vented to get rid of any gas formed by the hot metal. These really work well at bronze temperatures. I have reused this type open mold several times for pewter but at the higher temperatures they are considered one time use. You should have some experience with the casting techniques and the requirements for safe handling. jesse ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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