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| Re: [Orchid] Flexible-shaft tools | ||
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From: Trevor F Date: Sat Sep 20 22:28:41 2003 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== > These factors have me wondering whether Dremel is a good > choice for a flexible-shaft tool, or if it is something a > metalworker wouldn't be caught dead using. What brand would you > recommend? I especially would like to identify the tools that > produce the least amount of noise! I'll just add a few personal anecdotes to this well-covered thread. I used the little hand-held, multi-speed Dremel tools for years. In fact about 20 years. In that time I went through about a half dozen of them. They were cheap and, for me, incredibly useful. I found that having a cutting/grinding tool moving at high speed had a utility second to none. We're talking everything from polishing stones to shaping hammerheads. If you want to grind, cut, drill, polish, sand or shape a variety of materials including stone, glass, ferrous and non-ferrous metals, plastic, rubber, bone, horn and wood then these types of tools simply cannot be beat. Admittedly I used, abused and over-used my Dremels but I got a lot done and I learned a hell of a lot about what to use, where, how and why. That said, I now own a Foredom SR (reversible). It's quieter, much more durable, much easier to maintain, runs cooler and, because of interchangeable handpieces, has a much wider range of "bits" available. It has easily quadrupled the range of tasks that I was able to handle with the old Dremels. Simply put the Dremel is the scooter and the Foredom is the SUV: totally different league of machine. And worth every penny! For me the Foredom is one of those "desert island" things. I'd probably want it with me just in case someone ran power to the island 'cause then I'd be back in business. A few personal thoughts: - don't cheap out on the machine itself. Good ones are great and cheapos often are not. The cheapos machines usually run hotter and can get scary hot if you run them for long durations (Dremels too by the way). Not true for the better machines. The cheapo handpieces run too hot so you end up buying a proper Foredom handpiece. The flex-shaft itself doesn't last as long as a good quality one so you end up replacing it. Brushes wear out, can you get replacements? The foot controls on the cheapos are often pretty inferior too. If you want cheap I'd say buy Dremels until you can afford a Foredom (or equivalent). - think about what you _really_ need before you buy a good machine. Do you just need a straight 2000-18,000 rpm? Maybe 0-5000 rpm would suit you better, and you'll need that range if you're using a hammer handpiece. What about reversible? If you cut and grind a lot it can make your life noticeably easier. - 1/10 vs 1/8 vs 1/4 horsepower only matters if you have a habit of doing comparatively heavy grinding and cutting (read "tool making"). 1/10 is fine for all typical jewelry making activities. 1/4 is much better if you're into cutting steel, doing a lot of wood sculpting, reshaping hammers, mirror polishing your silversmithing stakes, etc. - foot controls are not all created equally. The basic and heavy duty models are simple rheostats and have two weaknesses: poor slow speed control (as in "not") and they've got kind of a hair trigger so they have the tendency to "jump" speeds rather readily. Fine speed control is not their forte. Digital foot controls are more expensive but they're a lot more responsive. Hand speed controls (just a dial in a box that sits on your bench) can be quite useful if your work is best done at single, steady speeds (such as drilling). If you do decide to go the hand control route consider getting a "dead man's" foot switch so you don't have to reach for the power while the machine is running. - if you're like me you'll end up spending several times the value of your machine on handpieces, bits, burrs, cutting wheels, polishing tips, polishing compounds, etc, etc. The machine itself will be a relatively small part of the overall monies spent. Plan for it because there's a million things your machine can do nicely _if_ you have the right handpiece/bit/bur/whatever for the job. - don't forget safety gear! Goggles --or better yet, a full face shield-- are mandatory. Also recommended is a dust or particle mask and some kind of sound protection (earplugs or the earmuff style ear protectors). These are just part of your setup costs. A faceful of steel shavings can really put a damper on you day --or career!-- if you are not properly protected. And don't think that your eye glasses will be enough eye protection. They'll get pitted with hot, flying metal dust faster than you can imagine. I went through more pairs of glasses than I did Dremel machines exactly because of this unfortunate habit. Ok, enough! Hope some of this was useful. Regards, Trevor F. ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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