[Jewelry making - Article 01071] - Re: [Orchid] Bezels for odd shapes

[Twoby2zoo]

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    Noel I printed a better word picture and sent it to Jim. Have not
    heard back from him as yet, guess there were to many words and not
    enough pictures.  Here is what I gave. Maybe someone can refine it a
    bit and it can go in the archives. 

    Jim Try this method. If any questions about it let me know. Hope it
    makes sense. 

    That is a huge rock to make a bezel for. But I have done them a few
    times, more so for cameo frames. I make a backup sheet of silver.
    Say 116CT has dimensions of 45 x 45 mm I cut make a sheet of silver
    60 x 60 use a cement or shellac to secure the stone to it temporally
    so you can trace the outside on the sheet. Scribe the outline of your
    stone and allow maybe 1 mm further out than needed. Remove the stone
    and clean the adhesive off of the sheet. Now you need to make your
    bezel wire. Allow about 40% more that the thickness of the stone and
    15 mm longer than the length needed. Also make the thickness of the
    wire a little more than needed. Figure the length buy wrapping a
    piece of paper around it. Some times I will make a test bezel wire
    in silver, so that if I'm wrong it has not cost to me much. Now, make
    a light scribe at the middle of the wire and then form an oval or
    circle as best you can and solder the ends together heat soften all
    the bezel wire as well. It's not crucial that the solder be real
    clean, chances are it will be cut at that point a little later. Now,
    where you scribed the center get a pair of flat pliers and make a 60
    degree bend at that point. This will be the bottom of the heart. Try
    and place the stone inside and bend the metal by hand so it forms
    around the heart. If you need to use pliers to bend it then put
    masking tape over the jaws so they do not mare the metal surface.
    Now, if you have it nice and snug all the way up to the solder line
    then you need to estimate how much to cut off at that point. Still
    leave around 5 mm longer than needed. Now, if you don't have one,
    then I suggest you make one of these up. Get a sheet of 1/4" glass.
    If it does not have rounded edges and it sharp then put duct tape
    around the edges for protection. Get some adhesive backed emory paper
    400 grit will do. Home Depot has the white paper with adhesive back
    for sticking on electric sanding blocks. Stick a 6 x 6 sheet on the
    glass. This will serve as a flat sanding surface for the bezel and
    many other items you make in the future. Run a flat file across the
    edge of your bezel to get it near level all around and then rub it
    back and forth on the paper to make it really level. Back to the
    silver sheet. Lay the bezel on it and make sure all is flush. put the
    point of the heart at the point you scribed with the scribe on the
    inside of the heart. If all lines up well with the scribe line inside
    the be zel as best can be get ready to tack solder the bezel on to
    the sheet using fine silver solder. Fire coat all the metal and flux
    where the solder will go. Tack the point but don't let the solder
    flow more that 5 mm in either direction. 

    Now you can get those flat pliers and bend the metal to stay outside
    the scribe line and work your way around, soldering about 5 mm at a
    time. You might want to place the stone inside now and then to see
    how the fit is. When you get near the top center you will see how
    much extra bezel wire you have and then cut it off. Once all is done
    and stone has a nice fit, you need to do the same as before with the
    edge of the bezel. File and sand on the glass to get a nice flush
    flat edge. Make sure you have the same height all the way around.
    Next you want to make cut another bezel wire to go inside the other,
    as a shelf for the girdle of the stone to sit on. Remember I said
    make the bezel 40% wider or deeper than needed? Well, you are going
    to cut most of that extra off to make an inner shelf for the stone
    to rest on. So, scribe a line all the way around at the depth you
    need in order to cut the shelf bezel off. Make sure you still have
    about 5 mm left for the thickness of the stone. Cut it out an d then
    cut where it was soldered. Not bend shape as needed to fit inside the
    larger bezel. When you have it as close as possible, stick it in and
    then the stone on top. See if you have all the depth needed to have
    a good lip on the bezel edge to burnish over the stone securing it.
    If not then trim that inner shelf bezel to accommodate it. When you
    think it's where it should be, solder it in place. Next you are
    going to drill a hole on the inside of the sheet in order to get a
    saw blade in and cut out all around the inside of the bezel. After
    this is done, you can either turn it bezel down and heat the top of
    the silver sheep until the bezel falls off or cut all around the
    outside and then heat it all off. Now, lay the stone inside and make
    sure it has a good fit. Keep it in there and file all around the
    outside of the bezel to get a nice even surface. This will also work
    harden the metal. Sand, polish add bail or what ever it will be held
    by as jewelry. Remove the stone and finish the inside. File a bevel
    all around the top lip so that it will be thin enough to burnish
    over. Put stone inside and burnish it all over. Sure wish I could
    simplify all of the above, maybe one day I will and then I can post
    it on Orchid for all to read. I imagine others like Allan Revere
    will give you a better procedure. I did not go back and check what I
    wrote but think it has a clear flow to it. 

Good luck, hope this helps.

Jim  in Florida
www.uniqueandprecious.com



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