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| Re: [Orchid] Bronze casting porosity | ||
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From: Andrew Werby Date: Tue Jul 15 23:30:00 2003 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== > I am having a real issue with porosity. I am casting in > bronze. Here is my process. I use a vacuum casting machine to > de-bubble my flasks and for the casting as well. I use a electro > melt furnace to melt my metal. Burnout cycle: 2 hours at 300 2 hours at 700 3 hours at 1350 1 hour at casting temp( I have varied this from 700-800-900 degrees) It seems like that final burnout temperature is a tad high. (This is Farenheit, right?) I've never needed to go above 1200F. When I've inadvertantly let the temperature get to 1350 or so, I've noticed some investment breakdown. You might also try a cooler flask temperature. If the mold is relatively cool, the metal will chill against the surface instead of staying liquid. melting temp of the metal is 950 degrees, I am casting it at just under 1000 C. I am using 100% new metal. What kind of bronze are you using? Most people around here use silicon bronze (hercaloy or everdur) because it melts cleanly without flux and welds well too. > I usually give it about 15 minutes and I quench the flask in > water. That might be a little quick- try giving them 1/2 an hour. Several of the parts I cast look like the surface has a type of crystalisation. That is when I look at the surface under a magifying glass it appears like many lines that have spaces between them overlapping each other. Kind of like fiberglass. I hope I am clear what I am trying to explain. And the porosity is strongest in the center of the object. I have a link to a couple photos below so you can see what I am trying to describe: http://www.geocities.com/vovinit/porosity.htm These pics are worst case scenarios. But I still get it to some degree in all my casts. But not alway's this bad. Sorry for the poor pics but I can only get so close to the object with my digital camera before it losses focus. Most porosity is due to inadequate gating: when there isn't enough liquid metal to feed the piece as it shrinks, then the piece will draw metal from its own semisolid areas toward the surface, resulting in a shriveled surface with sub-surface porosity. From the look of the pieces you show, this seems to be at least part of the problem. Is that long skinny gate part of the piece? If it's necessary, point that toward the top of the mold, and use a shorter and thicker gate from the button to the thickest part of the piece. And just after casting, put a piece of soft firebrick on top of the mold to keep the heat in the button, which encourages that reservoir of melted metal to stay liquid longer. Andrew Werby www.unitedartworks.com ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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