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| Re: [Orchid] Wax Injecting issue | ||
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From: John AT mlce.net Date: Sun Jul 13 00:46:41 2003 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== If you can, turn over the mold while injecting the wax so the letters will fill. If this doesn't work, powder the mold surfaces with corn starch or talcum powder to make a way to the air to get out. Also you might try to pump a bit harder to force the air out. If you are using a mold clamp ( your should) try not clamping the mold so tightly. If all of this doesn't help, you may have to cut air vents from the letters to the outside edge of the mold to allow the air to escape. The powdering will help the wax to release. We use a shaving mug soap brush to apply the powder but you can use any good small bristled large brush or you can use a puff (relatively fine mesh/weave bag with powder inside and just "puff/pat the mold surfaces to dust). Some folks use a powder puff (body powder applicator puff). Lightly blow off excess with breath or compressed air. If you can get the air bubble problems fixed without the use of the powder, a good spray on mold release (Smooth-on Universal Mold Release for one, but there are MANY out there) can be used for wax release. If you are using vulcanized molds, there seems to always be a problem with the wax sticking in the tapered injection nozzle hole. But I have found that if you use a type of washer called a "fender washer" (a washer that is large compared to the size of the hole, ie. a 1.25" washer with a .25" hole) available at a good hardware or auto parts store, putting this washer on the mold where the washer hole lines up with the mold filling hole and then putting the injector nozzle in the washer hole and filling the mold with wax, the wax doesn't stick so badly in the filler hole. This works best if you are using a spray release (often/usually a silicon material) but be sure to always release the 2 sides of the washer or the wax really will stick to it. Also, some waxes work better than others for different applications. I prefer Serria Red ( and just because somebodies wax is red doesn't mean it is the same as Serria Red. Many like more flexible waxes that the SR but I like it for cleanup and if any rework is needed (a well cut/made mold will keep this to a minimum, but the key words here are "well cut/made mold"). If you still have problems, re post or write me directly and we can talk more as to what your problems may be and what to do about them/it. John Dach ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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