[Jewelry making - Article 00753] - Re: [Orchid] Bezel thickness

[coralnut]

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    Lin, Happy to.  As I mentioned, I normally will use a two step
    operation in closing a bezel.  The first is to form the lower portion
    of the bezel wall to the curvature of the stone...whether it is a
    sharp high or long low angle.  The second is to seat the lip of the
    bezel against the stone. 

    I normally hold my rocker or roller, as you prefer, parallel to the
    base. In rare instances I might use it perpendicular to the base
    while going around a particularly difficult corner. 

    To do this, one must create a fair amount of pressure on the metal
    and yet have total control over the bezel roller so it does not
    either slip up and over the stone, possibly damaging the surface, or
    down along the outside bezel wall and possibley damage the bezel and
    any lip or embellishment below the stone. 

    I grip the roller as one would an ice pick or a knife in a 'downward
    stabbing' angle.  Assuming one is right handed, hold the tool in
    your right hand while securing the stone with your left.  You might
    also use some mechanical means to secure the stone or place it on a
    piece of rubberized material to keep it from slipping, brace it
    against your bench front if your pin is lower than the surface, etc,
    etc.  Approach the bezel at an angle that will, in your estimation,
    bring the lower bezel wall in against the stone. Sometimes this will
    be a very short distance, sometimes it will require significant
    movement. Rock the head of the tool with your wrist as you work
    around the stone....always beginning with the ends of the stone or
    the corners if there are any.  Rock it the length of the roller
    head, move to the next segment and rock it again, pressing in with
    the wrist movement as you move you elbow outward to attain a lever
    like action.  (Note: move your elbow out if you are moving forward
    around the stone.  If you are rocking backward, start with your elbow
    out and move it in towards your body).  By controlling the length of
    the movement with your wrist and limiting it to the length of the
    roller head, the chances of it slipping are dimished and, in any
    event, it should not move more than a few mm. 

    After making a complete circuit, change position so the roller head
    is pointing nearly perpendicular (this depends somewhat on the angle
    of the stone's shoulder).  Now, holding the tool in the same fashion
    and again, using your wrist, hold your elbow steady, place the EDGE
    of the head closest to the stone onto the bezel's top lip, direct the
    pressure downward and again, roll it forward or backward so the lip
    will seat against the stone. It will take some practice but you
    should follow the shape of the stone/bezel while rolling forward or
    backward without slipping off.  If done correctly, the lip will
    smoothly and firmly seat to the stone. I hope this is clear...?? 

    I find it fairly easy to roll bezels as heavy as 16 ga in this
    fashion. Going to 14 ga as suggested in one response might be a bit
    difficult though and hammering might be in order. On the other hand,
    by thinning the top portion of the bezel, there is no reason the
    roller cannot be used as well. 

    Cheers, Don at The Charles Belle Studio in SOFL where simple
    elegance IS fine jewelry! dcdietz AT attbi.com


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