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Re: [Orchid] Thickness of bezels  
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From: coralnut
Date: Fri Mar 21 22:34:21 2003
 
     
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Rick and all,

    The first thing I learned was stone cutting.  So... I went through a
    period of several years before I took up silver/gold smithing and
    learned how to make bezels, etc. 

    For some reason, I guess it was my instructor, the shoulders on my
    stones always seemed to be easy to set. I was taught to strive for
    medium domes with shoulders of between 5 to 10 degree completely down
    to the girdle. This provided plenty of 'grip' and yet accommodated a
    number of bezel heights.  These days, I cut stones of any thickness
    and therefore, have to accommodate varried domes.  But from my early
    experience, I always cut with an eye toward providing a shoulder that
    will give the setter (even if its me) some leeway with the bezel. 

    My father-in-law used to cut stones with 'bezel collars', a
    perpendicular collar about 3 mm wide between the dome and the girdle.
     But his dome always rose quickly from the collar and provided a good
    bezel grip. 

    Cheers from Don at The Charles Belle Studio in SOFL where we have
    been setting record high temps and where simple elegance IS fine
    jewelry! dcdietz AT attbi.com 



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