[Jewelry making - Article 00940] - Re: [Orchid] Rio grande jump ring soldering machine

[Anne M. Kelly]

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    dede: I recently bought a Hot Spot. I've observed that regardless of
    duration or power settings, if there is any movement or insufficient
    surface contact between the jump ring and the electrode when the
    pedal is depressed, the result will be sparking, burning, and/or
    incomplete solder joints. Since you're not having trouble soldering
    jump rings located at the end of a chain, the solution may be to find
    ways to juggle additional attachments so that you can maintain
    adequate surface contact with the electrode and the best relative
    position of the tweezers and the electrode. 

    The following things have helped me achieve more consistent results:
    I use the electrode sharpener frequently to ensure that the electrode
    surface is properly shaped and free of flux or solder debris.
    Periodically, I clean the jaw surface and tips of the tweezers with
    a soft, dry cloth. Before soldering, I sand and flux the ends of the
    open solder-filled jump ring, then close the jump ring so that the
    joint is tight and perfectly aligned, and reflux the exterior of the
    joint. I always angle the electrode and the piece so that I can see
    how complete the contact is between the two, then I depress the
    pedal, maintaining firm but gentle pressure on the electrode,
    tweezers, and jump ring being soldered while the machine is
    activated. I found that by watching the soldering process, I gained a
    better sense of how much tweezer/electrode contact is needed for each
    jump ring size and and which relative tweezer and electrode positions
    work best. Sometimes I use a third hand or jig to hold an attached
    link or finding out of the way so I can increase the surface contact
    between the tweezers, the electrode, and the jump ring I wish to
    solder. When soldering a jump ring with more than one attachment, I
    place the tweezers east with the tips pointing to the centre of the
    jump ring, the electrode and solder joint west, the two attachments
    respectively north and south. Gravity usually holds the southern
    attachment out of the way, and I rig up something to hold the
    northern attachment roughly perpendicular to the jump ring being
    soldered. With heavier gauge jump rings, I get better results using
    standard jump rings with a tiny bit of easy gold or silver paste
    solder applied with a needle to the interior curve of the jump ring
    at the joint. Instead of my regular flux, I use Optiflux, which is
    designed for electric soldering. I keep a list of the best duration
    and power settings for every gauge, metal type, and internal diameter
    of jump ring I use. I keep the list and a pen in a drawer of my bench
    near the Hot Spot. 

    I still prefer to use my torch for soldering almost everything but
    find the Hot Spot really useful when I need to attach and solder a
    jump ring without affecting the temper or finish of adjoining jump
    rings, findings, metal, etc.  Hope this helps. 

    I would like to thank Hanuman and all of those who help to make
    Orchid possible. Thanks also to the members who so generously share
    their experience and expertise. I have just begun to sell my work in
    galleries and am largely self-taught. For inspiration, education, and
    information, Orchid is one of my most cherished resources. By
    consulting the archives, articles, and daily postings, I've been able
    to learn new techniques, find solutions to fabrication problems, and
    locate suppliers. Orchid allows individuals, even those who do not
    have current access to schools or workshops, to benefit from the
    collective knowledge of the international community of jewellers, for
    which I am very grateful. 

Anne M. Kelly

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