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| Re: [Orchid] Keum boo burnishing marks | ||
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From: Jayne Redman Date: Sun Nov 03 21:27:53 2002 |
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========[ Invite a Friend - http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ]======== Bruce, I use a magnetic pin finisher for my production pieces to remove burnishing marks. You can also use a soft felt stick with rouge applied to the surface and rub out the marks by hand. Also buffing with rouge on a soft buff on your flex shaft or polishing lathe with light pressure is fine. Make sure all the edges of your keum-boo are bonded properly or they might peel up. Pumice works too. I used to use "Fine" before I got my magnetic finisher, which left a soft satin finish. I then brass brushed with warm soapy water to bring a higher sheen to the surface. Baking soda on a soft tooth brush is a little more abrasive than a brass brush and works well too. The finer the abrasive you use the less contrast you will get between the gold and silver. You might play around with different abrasives, scotch brite pads or steel wool for instance, until you get the finish you're looking for. I think Richard Mafong must have burnished very carefully. I would rather have to deal with the burnishing marks than risk not bonding the edges of the keum-boo well. After removing the burnishing marks, re-heat the piece slowly until you get that frosty white finish back, then pickle. Chances are you will get some bubbles - less if you heat really slowly. Just burnish them back down (when the piece has cooled) with your fingernail or something soft - I use a little burnisher I have made of delrin (any soft plastic will do) - then pickle. You shouldn't need to add layers of gold in order for the gold to be apparent, although you can achieve some wonderful color effects by keum-booing then rolling out your piece and keum-booing again in an overlapping pattern that allows the first layer of gold to show in places. The rolled out pieces take on a greenish cast compared to the thicker, freshly applied keum-boo. As an experiment, start with a thick piece of silver, 12 or 14 ga., adding more keum-boo every few rolls and burnishing down the bubbles as you anneal. I make all of my production pieces flat to start, keum-boo, form, and then solder if I have to. I try to use cold connections as much as possible. Every time you re-heat you risk bubbling in the keum-boo so it is better to solder first if you can. Oxygen can pass through the gold if it is thin enough, causing less bubbling. Try rolling your keum-boo material out to .02 mm - .01 mm. Tevel at Allcraft, (800)645-7124, has ordered 24K foil in both .02 mm and .01 mm from Korea that should arrive any day. He also is stocking agate burnishers from Germany that are the best burnishers I've used for keum-boo. The gold doesn't stick to the agate like it would to steel. I use two, swapping off when one becomes too hot as they can't be quenched in water to cool them. I too would love to hear from other people about their experiences with this technique. Regards, Jayne Redman ____________________________________________________________________ T h e O r c h i d L i s t Open Electronic Forum for Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Procedures ____________________________________________________________________ Orchid FAQ: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/faq.htm Orchid Archives: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive Orchid Galleries: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/gallery.htm Invite a Friend: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/invite.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Tips From The Jeweler's Bench - Article Archive ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm The Jeweler's Selected Bibliography List ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/jewelry-books Buy Orchid Jewelry: ~ http://www.ganoksin.com/shop ____________________________________________________________________ -Unsubscribe: -Email: orchid-request AT ganoksin.com Body=unsubscribe subject=blank ____________________________________________________________________ |
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